EVEREST TRAINING CLIMB PROGRAM- MT. PUMORI 7145m

34- days Oct. 4 - Nov 7,  2011, 2012'

Cost: $7600.00USD all inclusive.

How it works:  We run two teams on Mt. Pumori. One is a regular climb for skilled mountaineers and the other team consists of climbers wishing to test and evaluate and learn skills needed to climb big mountains.  The first team would be the  lead team working with our Sherpa staff to fix the route. The second team will follow that lead. It is possible to move between the two teams depending on your comfort level. The goal is for everyone to summit.

EXPEDITION ITINERARY- Oct. 4 to Nov. 7 2011, 2012'

October 4 (Date team is to be in Kathmandu.) Upon arrival check into the Nirvana Garden Hotel situated in Thamel the cornerstone of the Kathmandu scene.

October 5: Kathmandu. From the centrally located Nirvana Garden Hotel we begin our exploration of Kathmandu while doing last minute expeditions shopping and packing. While modern by Nepalese standards, Kathmandu is a sacred city to both Hindus and Buddhists. Our tour is an important introduction to understanding the cultures, which lay ahead. Kathmandu is prominently featured in both Buddhist scriptures and Hindu texts such as the Ramayana. We highly recommend taking in a self guided or guided tour of the 3000-year-old Swamayabhu (monkey temple), the great Stupa of Bodnath and the chaotic Hindu temple complex of Pashupatineth. This temple is home to many Hindu aesthetics or Sadhus.

October 6: After final administration requirements, we fly to the landing strip in Lukla. Weather permitting, this flight offers outstanding views of the eastern Himalayas. In Lukla, we meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the ascent to base camp. Our first day is an easy walk to lush environs of Monjo, located on the Dudh Kosi River. No time is wasted on the learning aspects of this expedition. Evenings throughout the trek will consist of learning assessing rope skills needed for a Himalayan climb.

October 7: We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 700 meters through Himalayan pine and Deodar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar (3445 meters). The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. Our group spends two days in Namche affording us the opportunity to acclimate, visit local markets and spend time with friends in town. Our camp is perched high above the city and we make our way to nearby high points to capture our first glimpses of Ama Dablam, Everest and neighbouring peaks.

October 8: Today is acclimatization day. Take a hike up to the twin villages of Kunde and Khumjung home of the climbing Sherpas and the Sir Edmund Hillary School. In the afternoon take in the sights in Namche Bazaar including the Sherpa museum and local marketplace.

October 9: Trek to the village of Tengboche (3866 meters), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu. At the monastery we attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals performed by local monks. Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular. The jagged peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south, as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are visible to the north. The Monastery at Tengboche is one of the most well known in the world as the Rinpoche is revered throughout the Buddhist community and has authored a number of books and essays. In the past our groups have had an audience with the Rinpoche and received his blessing. This is often a moving and intense experience. Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde 6186 meters, Tawachee 6467 meters, Nuptse 7878 meters, Lhotse 8500 meters, Everest 8852 meters, Ama Dablam 6857 meters, Kantega 6778 meters, Thamserku 6607 meters. After visiting Tengboche we move to spend the night in Pangboche.

October  10: This morning we make visit Lama Geshi for our private Puja ceremony to bless the expedition before making our way up to Dingboche for the night.

October    11: Trek to Dugla, overnight in the lodge along the raging river coming out of the Khumbu Glacier.

October  12: Trek to Pumori base camp and settle in the comforts of your base camp established by our sherpa crew who has gone ahead of us.

October  13: Rest, adjust to the altitude and start preparing for instructional sessions and organizing equipment.

October 14 to November 1- Working on the mountain climbing and training to be ready for a summit bid during this time. Extra days have been included for inclement weather.

November 2: Rest day in BC and pack up to depart.

November 3: Move to Pangboche

November 4 : Travel from Pangboche to Namche

November 5: Namche to Lukla

November  6: Fly Lukla to KTM

November  7: Depart Kathmandu

We utilize local teahouses for lodging along the trek in to base camp.

ROUTE INFORMATION

South Ridge- a scramble to (ABC) Advanced Base Camp, gradual to steep snow to Camp 1, to camp 2 mixed snow & ice (grade 3 ice) & rock 5.4 easy to moderate, summit day is steep snow 55 degrees. Some rock climbing ability really helps here.  You will need crampons for some of the snow/ice (the upper mountain) and mixed stretches, so experience with the use of these helps a lot.  Of course you will need to be in an above average shape and a positive mental attitude is as important as good physical condition.

COURSE OVERVIEW:  This mountaineering course is designed for the beginner to intermediate climber. The program is for climbers wishing to develop strong fundamental skills in all aspects of snow and alpine climbing and while at altitude. Altitude training is essential for Mt. Everest. The course serves an excellent prerequisite for climbing Mt. Everest or any other technical or high altitude peak.  Many climbers claim Mt. Everest is not a technical peak and we agree. Everest from our years of experience is about stamina, ability to adjust to altitude, team work, being self-reliant in the mountains and more importantly, a positive attitude.  We believe our Everest training climbs are the best there is. After taking this course one should feel mentally prepared and experience "WISE" for high altitude mountain climbing. An excellent opportunity to meet your leader and sherpa team in the mountains, whilst getting acquainted with local customs, weather patterns all while focusing on the world's largest mountaineering objective  "Mt. Everest" which is standing directly in front of you the entire time. Visualization is a powerful tool.

Our past experiences while learning on Himalayan peaks have been very successful. The goal is for the entire team (learning or accomplished climber), to all summit by the end of the expedition.

COURSE OBJECTIVES

Learning and practicing technical and practical knowledge in all aspects of snow and alpine climbing expedition style including: 

• Glacier Travel and use of ladders

• Rope/Belay techniques

• Crevasse rescue

• Route finding

• Self arrest

• Rappelling

• Pacing oneself at altitude

• Safe climbing in crowds

• Use of crampons on ladders

• Fixing ropes and traveling on fixed lines.

• Building high altitude camps do's and don'ts.

• Boiling water at altitude, fuel and stove alterations for high altitude climbing.

• Food preparations, do's and don't of cooking and packing at altitude.

Developing educated self-reliant climbers with the ability to evaluate subjective/objective hazards expedition style including:

• Rock Fall
• Glacier conditions
• Critical decision-making
• Group experience
• White out navigation 
• Mountain weather conditions general
• AMS- Acute mountain sickness: Signs, symptoms and treatment.
• Safe travel on trails and routes with yaks and zomo's and including unique rules of the trail in sherpa land.

Himalayan specific:

• Use of oxygen
• High altitude gear evaluations and care
• Sherpa, culture, customs and their role on an expedition
• Everest Mountain Weather
• Nepalese Liaison Officers and Chinese Liaison Officers and their roles
• Permits, restrictions, environmental issues, procedures and waste disposal.
• Communications, language barriers, sat phones, hand radios.
• Religious considerations of the region.
• Health management
• High altitude helicopter rescue and protocol
• To yak or not to yak spiritual rescue protocol
• Expedition logistics, permits, liaisons etc.
• Ice-Fall doctors and their role on Everest.
• Team negotiations with regards to shared rope and fixing routes on the mountains.
• Negotiating shared camp space with other expeditions in the region.
• Negotiating summit bid time slots with other expeditions in the region.

PHYSICAL CONDITIONING

In the best interest of personal safety, success and team compatibility, adequate training and excellent physical condition is required. Prior climbing experience of carrying a heavy pack for multiple days serves as an excellent preparation for this course; Climbers must be able to carry an average of 15kg to 20kg. A suggested training technique would be carry water bottles or containers of water uphill and then empty them for return sparing your knees from injury. 

LAND COST  $6700.00US- INCLUDES

• Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla return and airport taxes.

• Cargo of gear to Lukla, porters and yaks to base camp and return to Kathmandu.

• Comfortable sherpa lodges on the trek in to base camp plus 2 days on the way out.

• Base camp facility, bright spacious group tent, heat, solar power, shower, toilet.

• Sherpa Cook and staff with all meals while at base camp.

• All high altitude mountain food

• All climbing Sherpa staff on mountain and base camp staff.

• Climbing permit

• Satellite phone to keep in touch with home.

• Cybercasts updated daily for sponsor and family at home to follow your progress.

• Peak Fee and all Nepalese Govt. Fees and Nepalese Agency Fees.

• Environment fees, permits, mandatory Liaison officers and their fees/expenses.

• All group on mountain equipment such as tents, stoves, fuel, ropes, party first aid.

• High Altitude recover chamber

EXPEDITION DOES NOT INCLUDE

• Airfare to and from Kathmandu to your home and airport taxes.

• Drinks, mineral water, laundry, postage, telephone calls and other items of a personal nature.

• Meals and hotel in Kathmandu. We offer discounted rates at our Peak Freaks preferred hotels.

• Entry Visa fee ($40.00US) & International departure tax (approximately $16US)

• Emergency Evacuation- Personal accident insurance

• Personal climbing equipment as noted on your gear list.

APPLICATION- DEPOSIT

TO BOOK:

Contact Peak Freaks to see if space is available. Once confirmed a deposit is required to hold your spot and the administration forms will be forwarded to you.

HIMALAYAN HIGH ALTITUDE SPECIALISTS since 1983