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MT. ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION- 6962m with Peak Freaks DATE: February 6 to 23, 2009 COST: $3780.00US (based on a minimum of 4 participants) LOCATION: Aconcagua is located in Northern Argentina, in the Province of Mendoza, where the summit is just 12 kilometers from the Chilean border. MOUNTAIN INFORMATION The local Aymara Indians, named the mountain Kon Kawa, or snowy Mountain. The Chilean Indians, the Araucanos, named the river on the western side of the Andean range Aconca-Hue, or ït comes for the other side." As the Inca empire influence reached the central Andes, they called the mountain Ancocahua, where the Quechau the root anco means white and cahuac means sentinel. There is considerable evidence that the Incas climbed very high on the mountain. In 1947, a skelton of guanaco, a wild relative of the llama, was found along the ridge between the North and South summit. Archaeologists doubt that this animal would have made it to this elevation o nits own! The most significant find occurred in 1985 where a mummy, preserved by cold dry air, was found at 5200m (17,060 ft) along the southwest ridge of Cerro Pyramidal, a sub peak of Aconcagua. It is thought that there are other undiscovered archaeological sites on Aconcagua that found, deserve to be left untouched and accurately reported to the authorities for investigation. In 1883, the German Paul Gussfeldt was the first European to attempt the might mountain in "full Scottish conditions, " with poor equipment, and very little information Gussfeldt didn't make the summit summit, but he made it to the 6500m mark. Their expedition was notable because they opened the route for future expeditions. On January, 14th 1897, the Swiss Mathias Zurbriggen was the first to reach the summit solo! EXPEDITION FOR FEBRUARY 6, 2009 - Polish Glacier. PHOTO GALLERY Plus- For family and friends - Combination expedition including a light trek and send off of the climbing team and other multi-sport programs including a side trip to Buenos Aires.
About the route The approach is made through the Valle de Vacas ( Vacas Valley ) and then, from Base Camp Plaza Argentina (4200 m) we climb the mountain through the route of the Falso Polacos (False Polish). After leaving base camp and arriving to camp 2, we climb diagonally and towards the left, from the rocky area (5900 m) at the base of the Polish Glacier. You must cross the bottom, flat part of the glacier to arrive to the camp up on the glacier of the Aconcagua . After this, you keep going up to a snow ridge which leads to the summit. The descent is through the same route, returning to Plaza Argentina . This is not a route where you will find technical difficulties but it is a glacier at the top. On summit day we will be on the glacier wearing crampons and using ice axes. Daily ProgramDay 1: Airport reception and transport to the hotelOur expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina. At your arrival to the international airport or bus station in the City of Mendoza transfer to the hotel and hitch up with Tim to go over your gear items. This is a very important step. Mendoza is the last place available, where you can buy or rent equipment, it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last minute. After this, there is a group meeting and later we go to one of the many fine restaurants for dinner. You get the chance to taste the delicious argentine "asado" (barbecued meat) and wonderful wines from Mendoza. There are numerous alternatives for those who do not drink wine or eat red meats. Dinner in Argentina is usually around 9:00 P.M. Day 2: Transport from Mendoza to the Hotel in Penitentes.After all the permissions and permits to climb are in place we jump on board our private transportation and begin our drive through the mountains on the breath taking picturesque road to Villa de Penitentes; at noon we stop in Uspallata, a beautiful Andean Valley where we have lunch in a typical restaurant. After another hour of walking through high mountain roads, we arrive to Villa de Penitentes, where we stay at a Hotel in the mountain. In the afternoon we weigh all the equipment for the mules to get ready for transportation to the base camp. Evening dinner and rest. Day 3: Approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas.During this day we start the approach from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park. We arrive to Punta de Vacas, where the mule carriers load the equipment on the mules and we walk to the Base Camp, this takes three days. On this day, we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m). This is where we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and assemble our tents. After refreshment, we will enjoy a hot dinner. Day 4: Acclimatization trek from Pampa de Leñas to Casa de Piedras.In the early morning we prepare our equipment again to be transported by the mules and we have a large breakfast. On this day, we advance towards an intermediate camp, passing through the Quebrada de Vacas, for 6 to 7 hours where you see the Quebrada de Relinchos Stream. This is where we will be able to see the first sight of the Western Face of the Aconcagua. This place is named Casa de Piedras (3240 m) and is where we spend our last approaching night, from Base Camp. Again we assemble the dormitory tents and then we have dinner. Day 5: Approach from Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina (4200 mt)This is the last day of approaching to Plaza Argentina (4200 m). We start trekking for 5 to 6 hours, going through the margins of the Relincho Stream and ascend up the steep slope of the same name, which takes us to Inferior Plaza Argentina. This is where we will be able to see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where Plaza Argentina is placed. At this camp, we meet up with our personal equipment. Day 6: Rest and acclimatization Base Camp.At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the Camp, take a shower and explore the area. One get a medical check-up here and reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and food for transportation for the next day. It is here you start to meet climbers from other parts of the world and our staff that works at the camps. Day 7: Equipment carrying to Camp 1 (5000m)We keep our backpacks as light as possible to be able to gradually adapt to the altitude. This is a hard day, where we will be walking for 6 hours, ascending on easy terrain. This is when we start enjoying the real beauty of high altitude, ascending more and more, obtaining a spectacular view of the Quebrada de Relinchos and the Horcones Valley. Day 8: Ascent to Camp 1 (5000 mt)We have breakfast and start the ascent from Camp 1. After a 5 to 6 hour walk on easy terrain we arrive to Camp 1 (5000m). We meet with the load that we brought in the day before. We assemble the camp and then organize the loads for carrying the following day. We rest and have dinner. Day 9: Equipment carrying to camp 2 (5500m)We carry food and fuel to camp 2 (5500m). This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible to continue with our gradual acclimatization. We return to Camp 1. Have dinner and rest. Day 10: Rest at Camp 1 (5000m)This is our rest day to hydrate ourselves and fuel up. We must prepare ourselves mentally, for the final stage. Day 11: Ascent to Camp 2 (5500m)After breakfast we start the ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5500m). We meet with our loads that we brought two days before and reorganize for the next day. We rest and have dinner. Day 12: Equipment carrying to Camp 3 –Polish Glacier (5900m)We carry food and fuel to camp 3 (5900m).
This is a
hard day, of about 4 hours of walking, where we ascend on easy terrain.
Besides this effort, it is very important to control our body adaptation to
the altitude and listen to your bodies response carefully. We will keep a
close on your from here on out to make sure everyone is adapting as
planned. Day 13: Ascent to Camp 3 (5900)- Polish Glacier (5900m)Early morning, after breakfast and after disassembling our tents, we start climb for about 4 hrs. The climb is diagonal and towards the left. The lower part of the glacier is flat then steeper to Camp 3. We also plan the final strategies for the last day of ascension to assure success in reaching the summit. We have dinner and rest. Day 14: Summit day (6962 m)The day begins at 5:00 am. This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We continue up the glacier to a ridge of snow which leads us to the summit at 6962m. This is normally where we would see the first sun rays of the day. We can find strong winds, even on calm days. The Southern Wall of the Aconcagua, considered one of the largest walls of the world. An indescribable sensation takes of total satisfaction takes over as we reach the summit at 6962 m, where the prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of overcoming, that you only finally understand once you reach it. After sharing these moments of accomplishment and emotion with our expedition mates, we descend to camp 3, disassemble and move down to Camp 2. Day 15: Plaza ArgentinaReturn to Base Camp. Special reception and have a dinner for celebration Day 16: Plaza Argentina to Pampa de LeñasWe have breakfast and start the descent from Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Leñas. After a 7 hrs walk we meet with our equipment. We assemble the tents and enjoy our last night at the mountain. Day 17: Pampa de Leñas - Punta de Vacas - MendozaWe have breakfast and then start the descent from Pampa de Leñas to Punta de Vacas, approximately for 3 hours. Transport to the hotel in Mendoza in private vehicles. Farewell dinner. Day 18: AirportTransport from the hotel to the Airport or bus terminal. End of services. TRANSPORT
LODGING
MEALS
COMMUNICATIONS
MULES
FOOD
MEDICAL
TENTS
EQUIPMENT LIST FOR MEN AND WOMEN: Climbing Gear BOOKING Contact trek@peakfreaks.com $1000CA or US deposit is due at time of booking. Final amount is due: 90 days prior to departure. GUIDES Tim Rippel- and Angel Armesto from Argentina |
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HIMALAYAN HIGH ALTITUDE SPECIALISTS since 1983
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