SUMMIT SUCCESS!     

MOUNT EVEREST 2008 EXPEDITION DEBRIEF- by Tim Rippel 

We are proud of this year's expedition on Everest. We managed to get six out of seven who attempted the summit push, along with seven out of 11 climbing sherpas, on the summit this year. Ratio-wise, compared to the other large expeditions there this year, we did pretty darn good.

We started out with nine, including myself, and by the time the summit bid had come around we were only seven, plus all of our sherpa climbers.  Nabs became ill late in the climb and was not able to recuperate by the time summit bid time slot came around. Saad's rapid ascent mission quickly came to an end when he slipped on a ladder in the ice-fall early in his climb, injuring his leg enough that he was forced to call off his climb.

 Our team members were an amazing mix of talents, personalities and cultures who all contributed to our excellent team dynamics and will be friends for life. Even Sultan, who gave us a good boxing match up high on the mountain, claims he still cares about us. Sultan doesn't remember anything about the events that took place the night of his rescue. 

 Sultan was new to climbing as many who attempt Everest are today. He was cautioned about how slow he moved on the mountain, and told this could be a serious problem for him in light of how many people there going to be on the route. He had all the information on how important it was to not push beyond his abilities come summit time and to be in tune with his body and the effects of altitude. He assured me he understood.

 I believe we did something right that helped everyone perform the way they did on summit night. On May 11, after the mountain was open again and the military pulled out of BC, I suggested we go to Camp 2 and not return to BC until we had summited. We agreed to go to Camp 3 for acclimatization and stay two nights instead of the normal one. We stuck to the plan and didn't retreat to BC before the summit bid but, instead, stayed at Camp 2, making the summit push from there. I think we were stronger because of it and well acclimatized. The good weather was also working for us. We had 85 bottles of oxygen in place and 11 climbing sherpas which would be one to one plus two personal sherpas and back-up.

We headed out from the South Col - C4 the night of May 20 at 10:00pm joining in the long line of climbers headed for the summit. I had positioned myself in between the stronger members and the slower members to be in the best spot for both of them should they need help.

 I made my check-in calls to Becky in Canada, who was online with Farouq's sponsor, Bader, throughout the entire summit bid night via MSN messenger. Bader was also in sat phone contact with Farouq so we had a four-way conversation going. At one point I called Becky and told her I thought Farouq and Sultan had turned back.  I was disappointed for them but, at the same time, relieved, for safety reasons, that they made the right decision. Becky corrected me saying "No, they are still coming”. She had Bader on MSN, who was talking to Farouq at that very moment from his sat phone. Farouq was expressing concern to Bader because he had been asking Sultan to turn back just above the balcony but he refused.  I learned later that Willie Benegas, while on his way down from the summit, passed Sultan on his way up and also told Sultan to turn back, but he continued.

 Soon it was the morning of May 21. After a full night of climbing, we were all gathering on the summit:  Dom at 7:00am, followed by Larry at 11:30am, Scott at 12:30pm, and myself with George at 1:15pm.  George, Scott and I were just starting to take our summit photos when I got a call from Sultan that he was dehydrated. I told him to borrow some water and head down and that we were on our way and I had more water for him. We passed Farouq on his way up, traveling with his personal sherpa Mingmar, and he was in good shape. He was late, from moving so slowly with Sultan, but the weather was better than perfect today and I didn't have reason to be concerned for him to continue. He was in very good hands. What we didn't know was that Farouq had been having trouble with his glasses fogging up, which caused him to develop snow blindness. We didn't learn of this till the next morning. When wearing glasses under goggles, they tend to fog up, so Farouq was lifting his goggles to clear his glasses, allowing too much sun reflection in, which resulted in burning his eyes.

 When we got to  Sultan it was now 2:00pm, he was at the South Summit 8800m, sitting up at this point but refusing to move. The rescue mission began. He was now starting to go in and out of consciousness and at one point quit breathing. It was clear he was not going to walk off this mountain on his own accord.  I had to remove his crampons as he was lashing slices in my down suit and punctured my Everest boots kicking at me whenever I tried to get near him. I asked Larry to go and cut some old rope for me so I could set-up a rope rescue system to lower Sultan down. As a mountain rescue professional and examiner, I improvised a system with what we had and instructed the sherpas on the system and we began lowering him.  I knew this was going to take some time, energy, oxygen and water, all of which was depleted by our longer-than-normal summit bid time due to the record breaking 75 climbers on the route this day. It was clear we needed help. Scott was just about out of oxygen so I sent him down to C4 to get some help.  I asked Larry to give his bottle of oxygen to Sultan and get out of here, get down. We had more oxygen at the balcony they could get to in good time. When George came by I sent him down also, behind Larry.  On his way down he came across Larry resting, (not lying in the snow as previously reported, an apparent exaggeration, which Larry cleared up with George later on at the team’s debriefing). However, Larry did need George's help sharing his oxygen bottle until they were safely down.  I knew Farouq would be on his way down from the summit soon and I would need his help to communicate in Sultan's language. Not that Sultan didn't speak and understand English well enough, but I thought any help I could get to convince Sultan to keep moving was now urgent.  I radioed to Lhakpa Sherpa, our rescue sherpa whose responsibility was to stay at C4 in the event of an emergency. He came up with more oxygen, water and food.  Now there was Farouq and his personal sherpa Mingmar, Dendi and Lhakpa with me working and lowering Sultan bit by bit. 

 As we were working our way down, we came upon a climber in distress - an older Korean fellow we had seen earlier in the day dragging an empty bottle of oxygen bottle behind him, heading to the summit. Scott checked the man’s gauge and confirmed it was indeed empty, so I got the word out to one of Jamie McGuiness's sherpas to give him some oxygen if he could and the Korean continued to the summit. This was the same guy we found on our way down, sitting on the route, stuck in old fixed rope, with the new fixed rope pinching his shoulder in a position such that he couldn't move. I managed to cut the old rope under him, move the rope from his shoulder that had trapped him, and slid him down and to one side.  He was obviously terrified. When I moved him, I discovered he had been sitting a puddle of his own urine.  Poor fellow, I couldn't help him much more than that my hands were full with Sultan. I did however have him and his pack now properly hooked up to the new fixed line and he managed to scoot down on his butt, and eventually showed up at C4.

 Meanwhile, Scott had made it down quickly to C4 calling out for help, but no one responded.  Scott resorted to offering money, twice, raising the ante each time, but no one was prepared to acknowledge his request. Finally, someone pointed him to Willie Benegas’s tent, saying he might be able to find help for you. Willie found a sherpa from another team who was going up the next morning to do a carry of oxygen to the balcony and asked him to also carry a sleeping bag, stove and fuel to prepare Sultan for a night out.

All Sultan wanted to do is sleep. We were now prepared to let him do exactly that.  There was no way we could physically carry him.  At this point, Sultan had become violent and a danger to his rescue party. At one point he heaved a rock at me, hitting me square in the forehead, knocking me off balance, and almost sending me down the South Face. Luckily I was stopped by a sherpa on his way up. The sherpas were no longer interested in the events that were taking place and I respected that. We had been working extremely hard to lower and drag Sultan; it was now over 32 hours we’d been up there, most of it without oxygen. We were dragging Sultan and would pendulum him through the steep pitches. The rocky flat sections were very difficult having to semi-carry him and drag him, trying not to rip open his down suit.   

 It was now 3:00am May 22, at around 8100m we put Sultan in the sleeping bag and tied him off on a ledge so he wouldn't roll off, straight across from Scott Fisher's dead body, hoping Fisher might tell him to get out of there, that was his place, go home!  From what happened next, maybe he did? I managed to get some water and fuel in Sultan. I tried to get him to take the oxygen but he kept throwing it off.  I covered his face with his Oman flag, tucking it in around his hood to protect it from the elements.  I told him I would be back in a couple hours - we were much closer to C4 now so I figured I could quite easily make it back up in good time to take over where we left off, after we rested. We decided to go at once and get some rest for all of us, warm our feet, and get more provisions.  It was around 4:30am I retreated to C4, with the sherpas, and we crawled into our tents. It was just a short time later a sherpa came down without actually looking at Sultan reporting that Sultan was dead. Willie passed this news on to me. Needless to say, I was devastated. I had just left him, how could it be?  I was in shock. The feeling inside me was something I had never felt before. 27 years guiding and I have never lost a client, it didn't seem real.

 Around 7:00am I heard someone yelling, "Tim, Tim, Sultan is alive!" I looked out of my tent to see two sherpas from the Indian Army escorting him down. I couldn't see him at first because I was looking for someone carrying him down but then my eyes focussed in on his familiar boots, he was walking!  Apparently the Indian army sherpas passed by him and saw him rustling in his sleeping bag. He was wide-awake now and somewhat refreshed, got up and walked down to the south col. This was music to my ears, not only did he come back from the dead but he walked down too and I didn't have to go back up and get him.

 That morning, we were all re-united again at the South Col, except for Dom, who had summited first then went all the way down to C2 unaware of any of the problems we were dealing with till we caught up to him.  Willie escorted Farouq down from C4 to C2, Sultan retreated with George and Ang Pasang to C3 and I went all the way down to C2 after 38 hours in the death zone.  The next day Scott, Dom and Larry went to BC.  I stayed at C2 with Farouq until his eyes were well enough to travel through the ice-fall to BC, and also to wait for Sultan to make his way down too. I was concerned Sultan would have difficulties because of his fingers in the ice-fall but it worked out

 Sultan is now home and he will probably lose two, maybe three, finger tips to frostbite but other than that all else checks out just fine.

 The sherpas and I weathered well up there. We have all our fingers and toes and the oxygen deprivation didn't seem to effect us.  At least Becky says I check out so far. Though I may be able to milk this one if needed.

Tim Rippel

A word from Sultan:  ''Once again I would like to thank everyone in the team for the rescue efforts and being  lovely companions.  Special thanks goes to Farouq, Tim, Scott, Larry, Dom, George and Nabs. Plus to the sherpas who played a major part in our success in every stage and to Becky for her lovely coverage and support.

It has been a great experience and no doubt that these days were one of the great days in my life.

Take care all and wish you all a pleasant life,''

Sultan

•   13 Peak Freak team members stand on top!  LIVE DISPATCH FROM THE CLIMBERS HERE at Camp 3 pre-summit bid.

• TO STAY ON TOP OF WHAT WE ARE DOING NEXT- BE SURE TO  BOOKMARK OUR HOME PAGE FOR SPECIALS AND NEWS!

• EXPEDITION REPORT: Tim will be providing a full expedition report upon his return to Canada June 8. Including detailed rescue efforts.

News from Tim. Sitting in Namche Bazaar with longtime Everest climbing partner Constantin Lacatusu, . Tim was with him in 1997 when he became the First Romanian to stand on top of Everest.  Rendezvous in the Himalayas are infectious among world climbers. Never a "been there done that". The Himalayas continues to lure world climbers back again and again.

May 28, 2008- TIBET RE-OPEN DOORS: Our Tibetan contact informs us today that China has agreed to re-open Tibet for tourism again beginning the end of June 2008. We are told that it will be for sure this time, hmmm?  We will be offering our independent Tibet Overland Jeep tours again for the summer for anyone interested.

Rescue excerpts from MSM's journal.

I was about to deliver two rescue breaths and begin CPR when Tim tried the old school precordial thump—a hard fist to the chest which is a desperate attempt to provide enough stimulus to get the heart beating again.  Whatever the physiological reaction was, Sultan inhaled again and though he denies ever losing consciousness it was clear to me that we were still in serious trouble.  Successfully rescuing a patient from this high in the Death Zone was a rarity in the annals of mountaineering—especially, when the would-be rescuers were exhausted from a grueling two days of climbing.

“Larry, go down and cut that rope.”  Tim was now issuing directives with one thought in mind…save Sultan’s life.  Though I had certifications in Rope Rescue Systems I and II as well as Mountain Rescue I couldn’t believe how fast Tim was tying his figure eights, adjusting his prussiks, and setting anchors for Sultan’s descent…and all this without oxygen.  Tim’s bottle was empty.  I descended about 10 meters to help Larry with the receiving end of the hand off.

“Tim, what do you want me to do?”  I asked our guide.

            “We’re going to need more help.” He replied

Tim spent  38 hours at the death zone, the latter part mostly without oxygen. Scott rousted a sleeping bag and stove sent up by Lhakpa sherpa thanks to Willie making the connection with the only taker Lhakpa, while Willie came to bat and brought Farouq down from C4 to C2.   

This is where I am going to leave you. The team will all be back in Kathmandu tomorrow. Now in Kathmandu is Dom, Farouq and Sultan. George, Scott and Larry tomorrow and Tim and Dendi in two days time and Rum Doodles is calling. Speaking of Rum- Tim handed off his congratulations bottle hand delivered by Ang Nima all the way from Kunde when he heard the news.  I think he said Jamie McGuiness and the boys were currently enjoying it next door. Let the parties begin!

.

Willie and Tim fixing up snow blind Farouq for the descent from C4 to C2	Sultan Rope Rescue with Tim , Dendi and Mingmar Photos: MSM	Sultan arriving at the South Col- C4.

May 26, 2008- FIRST SUMMIT PHOTO TO SHARE-  Larry Williams Mt. Everest summit May 21, 2008.

"To all the students from Spanish Springs High School in Reno Nevada who didn't know where I was.  See you all soon! "

Larry was able to dispatch this photo from Namche Bazaar in the Khumbu Valley on his way home from the summit of Mt. Everest. Scott and Larry will be up first thing tomorrow morning to begin the 13 mile walk to Lukla. Getting out of there will be dependant on good weather. The monsoon rains are starting to move in now which can back log flights for several days forcing them to wait it out for good enough weather to fly. 

Once we spent six days in Lukla waiting.  We don't want to think about that.   

Congratulations Larry!!!!

May 25, 2008 - Dingboche- working our way home!  

Blog #5 - by MSM

The moon over Nepal was shedding its pink luster while the sunrise over Tibet was growing in amber.  In between, Mt. Everest split the man-made boundaries like an upside down thunderbolt.  It was officially the most beautiful dawn I had ever witnessed.  A single tear froze inside my goggles.  I was going to make it.
 
Standing in line at the Balcony, waiting my turn to change an oxygen bottle I was unaware that though my way up Everest would be a summit of splendor, the way down would be a complete circus of the bizarre.  For starters, I couldn't understand why I was using up oxygen so fast.  My flow rate was a measly 1.5 liters per hour.  With the slow motion progress of the crowd ahead of me, I didn't need anymore than that.  But something was wrong.  I kept checking the gauge on my TOP OUT system.  I was losing pressure too fast.
 
Hours later, about a 100 meters from the summit, I ran into Karma Sherpa.  I told him I would have to turn back because though I had a few hours of O's left, the crowd was too thick for me to make it back to the Balcony in time to swap out bottles.  Physically, I could make it to the summit, but I would be breaking one of my cardinal rules of mountaineering....SAVE EVERYTHING FOR THE WAY DOWN.  It was disappointing that I would not reach the summit, but not as disappointing as dying on the mountain.  While I was thinking the matter over Karma Sherpa offered to exchange bottles with me.
 
"No way." I replied without hesitation.  The only thing worse than dying myself, would be causing someone else to...but after convincing me that his brother had extra  I finally, gratefully accepted Karma's offer.  My summit hopes were restored.  Needless to say, I was extremely thankful.
 
After spending 45 minutes on top of the world, I headed down just ahead of our Peak Freaks guide Tim Rippel.  I've read the books and was ready to roll.  For me, summiting Mt. Everest was akin to running up to the penthouse of a burning building, grabbing your precious photos and then trying to make it out alive.  Yet, everyone was moving so slow!  An uneasy feeling was growing in my stomach....
 
HOWEVER,
 
I am currently in Dingboche, writing as fast as I can...the internet here is too costly!!!!  Therefore, I will blog you all tomorrow in Namche--with rescue photos!  There is so much to say about this year on Everest. I would like to say that there are shining stars in the darkness. The rescue efforts of Tim Rippel, Willie Benegas (MOUNTAIN MADNESS) , all the Super Sherpas, and Peak Freak members who played a hand in the amazing rescue of Sultan and Faruq had me in awe.  I was proud to be a part of it.
 
A QUICK EXCERPT...
 
On our way down from the summit, Tim and I came across a disoriented man from the Korean team.  He was out of oxygen and still trying to push for the summit.
 
"Tim, this guy is a dead man." I said after inspecting his pressure gage.  Goose eggs.
"So am I if I don't get out of here soon."  Tim replied.  I checked the medicine in his bottle.  He was at lower liters than me, but still took the time wrangle two Sherpas to help the man out by providing more oxygen.  Meanwhile, I tried to convince the Korean that the summit was in the opposite direction---DOWN--to no avail.  He staggered and stretched for a summit that was still an hour away.  A radio call interrupted my ineffective ruse.
"Tim, this is Sultan.  I am at the South Summit.  I am very dehydrated.  I need help."
"Okay, borrow some water from someone we're on our way down."  Tim assured him.
 
Later we passed Faruq who was still heading towards the summit with his personal Sherpa, Mingmar.  I thought someone would turn him around.  It was way too late to push forward....or maybe not????  Though I didn't trust it, the weather was absolutely perfect. 
"Tim, I want to get the hell off this mountain."  I said after another lengthy delay waiting for a man ahead of us to take ten minutes to swing his leg over a rock.  My sense of unease was now an absolute feeling of impending doom.
"Me too."  Tim said.  "Me too."
 
The harrowing events that followed may change my life forever.
 
Will write more soon...much love to you all.  Thank God we are all safe.
 
MSM

May 24: Everyone at BC:  All Peak Freak members are at BC.  Most are heading out tomorrow but Tim and some of the sherpas will stay a couple more days to sort and dry equipment to store in our Khumbu cache to be ready for our Everest Training climb on Mt. Pumori Oct. 2 this year. 

Some are asking "what is snow blindness" Explores Web has a good climbers description. Farouq had two days to heal at C2 and then was able to climb down from C2 to BC without a problem. Sultan also did really well and everyone is whistling away this morning (May 25 Nepal time) packing up. 

BLOG WITHDRAW SYNDROME:  Our readers are emailing complaining about suffering from blog withdrawal so I am getting some help till Scott has a chance to put something together. One reader said our expedition and blog was like following a Reality Everest Series.

PHOTO: Kristene Perron- good friend:  While Becky waits for Scott to send her some more of his wonder words from the mountain, she has given me the great honour of writing a little piece with my thoughts and opinions of the climb. And who am I? Well, I’m not a mountain climber, in fact all of what I know about mountaineering in general, and Everest in particular, comes from Tim, Becky, and few lousy Hollywood movies. I am a friend of the Rippels, I’m also a fan…but then, anyone who knows them for more than five minutes usually is.

 If you’re like me, then you’ve probably been following the team and their ascent from the comfort of your home. Cheering their triumphs, laughing at their misadventures, and waiting, so very impatiently, for that magic day when they would stand on the top of the world. (Hey you guys up there on the mountain, if you think scaling a wall of ice is stressful, try sitting at home, frantically refreshing Peak Freaks “Everest News” page every five minutes!)

 At last the day arrived; the team was on their way. Would the weather be kind? Would they summit? Would we ever find out why Scott is single??!

 From Peak Freaks’ Cook Islands Base Camp (elevation .5m), my husband, Fred, and I kept a constant vigil on the MSN Messenger – Becky had strict instructions to inform us the second she heard anything. With each ping, our excitement grew – “They’re on the move”, “They’re at the South Summit”, “Farouq is 450m from the summit and the others are ahead of him.”

 And just when we couldn’t take anymore, finally, the word, “They made it!” I’m sure I don’t have to explain how thrilled and relieved we were.

 But the drama was not over.

 Apparently, one of the team members, Sultan, was in a bit of trouble. Details, as tends to happen when you are communicating via sat phone half way across the world and 27,000 feet above sea level, were sketchy. The team was making their descent but Tim, Farouq, and two or three Sherpa’s were staying behind to try to rescue Sultan. We didn’t know much more than that when Tim passed into a dry zone for the sat phone. The next almost twelve hours were spent biting our nails down to the nub.

 Let me take a moment to tell you just a little bit about my friend Tim. On the Decency and Ethics Scale, Tim falls squarely in the top five percentile. In an emergency, I would not hesitate, not even for a heartbeat, to put my life in his hands. He is levelheaded, experienced, and able to assess, and respond to, danger with logic and determination. (Though he has been known to chase bears from his yard, naked, with only a broom for defense…go figure). On the mountain, without having ever climbed with him, I can swear to this, safety is his priority; his clients and team mates come before his ego, always. 

 Knowing this gave me some comfort as I waited for news. If anyone could survive a night on the mountain and get everyone down safely, it was Tim.

 And then came the, now all too familiar, MSN ping. I clicked open the screen, “Tim is alive.” Good, I can breathe again! Soon I would learn that he had held out with Sultan, until he saw the lights of other climbers. And later, both men would find themselves at Camp 4, sipping tea and recovering from a long ordeal. I don’t want to write more until I hear the full story, (rumours and speculation on Mt Everest? Impossible!) but suffice it to say we are all thankful to know Tim and Team are safe and sound.

 I think what I’ll take away from this latest Peak Freaks Adventure is a bit of a head shaking. Everest has become such a popularity contest, the “in” thing, a must-do for the challenge-oriented, that it’s easy to forget how very real the danger is. I tell people, “Oh my friend Tim’s climbing Everest right now,” as casually as I might say, “I think I’ll have a tuna sandwich for lunch.” How often do I really stop and consider the magnitude of what he’s doing? Not often enough.

 I’m not a mountaineer, I’m an ocean person. But both are extreme environments, both deserve to be approached with humility, with respect. You cannot “conquer” an ocean, nor a mountain. Everest, for all her beauty, can shake climbers off as easily as a bad case of fleas. I know Tim understands this; his understanding, his humility, his respect is what makes him more than an expedition leader, it makes him worthy.

 To all the Sherpas, thank you, bless you for taking such good care of Tim and his team. To the team members who did not summit, you attempted the near-impossible and that makes you mighty. Besides, you did summit because I know the rest of the team carried you with them in their hearts. To the team members who did summit, congratulations, may this experience enrich you and those you love. To Becky, we love you, and thanks for keeping us updated; we miss you most at times like these.

 To Tim, what can I say? You are my hero.                    

Namaste,

Kristene Perron

Consider our Peak Freak Everest Toe Warmer Program - Great for the body and mind. An opportunity to put salt and oil back into your body, warm and effortless!

May 23:  Tim calls in from C2. He had actually gone all the way down to C2 and didn't stay at C4.  Sultan stayed at C3 with George. Tim is with Farouq in C2 helping entertain him while his snow blindness heals and waiting for Sultan who arrived at C2 today with George. All considering Sultan was very lucky. Tim said he will probably only loose the tip of one finger. Dom, Scott and Larry are all down at BC now. 

Tim wants to give a big shout out to good friends Willie Benegas and the Indian Army sherpas who came to the aid of the team when it was most needed. Tim asked Scott to roust someone up at C4 who could carry a sleeping bag and stove up to boil water for Sultan that night. So a big thanks to Scott for making that happen too!  

The expedition is still not finished so stay tuned... Not finished till everyone is at BC... Tim hopes Farouq's eyes will be ready tomorrow for travel and it looks like Sultan will be able to manage travel through the ice-fall too. 

SUMMIT LIST

1. Dom Gilbert  (Canada)

2. Larry Williams (USA)

3. Michael S. Mortensen (USA)

4. George La Moureaux (USA)

5. Farouq Alzuman (FIRST FROM SAUDI ARABIA)

6. Tim Rippel (CANADA)

7. Mingma Sherpa (NEPAL)

8. Lhakpa Bhote (NEPAL)

9. Gelgan Sherpa (NEPAL)

10. Karma Sherpa (NEPAL)

11. Dendi Sherpa (NEPAL)

12. Kajee Sherpa (NEPAL)

13. Ang Pasang Sherpa (NEPAL)

May 22- Hi everyone!  I have just been prompted to make a report by our readers. Sorry, I have been so faithful until now. That is because this was show down time and I

Photo found on fellow Canadian climber Andrew Brash's website with Tim in C4 upon his return from a night high up.

 have spent countless hours responding to both concerned and happy readers.  Just want to say "SULTAN IS DOWN" but word is that he and Tim are still at high altitude, Camp 4. When I last talked to Tim he was packing up to get down to a lower elevation but apparently they are too exhausted. Tim and Sultan had spent 38 hours at extreme altitude so they (Tim and Sultan) will sleep at Camp 4 before stumbling down. All is good and thank you to everyone who has been giving us good vibes and incredible support throughout this journey. Our team  totaled 13 summits, 7 sherpas and 6 members.

SUMMIT REPORT!   Sorry everyone for the delay in getting the post updated. It has been a busy night.  Dom, Larry, Scott, George, Farouq and Tim have all summited.  Everyone except Farouq, Tim and Sultan are now down at C4. Sultan collapsed just below the south summit. Tim and 2 sherpas have been roping him down all night, Farouq is now with them helping too. Tim sounded very positive in that Sultan will be fine, they are refreshed after the arrival of Lhakpa Sherpa who came up from Camp 4 up to help and supply them with drinks and eats. Tim says it should be clear sailing now getting him down to C4 from where they are.  More later when the satellite reception improves.

Sat phone calls: Tim also said when he called in that I may not hear from him again till he gets back down to the South Summit because of something to do with reception.  So if you are wondering why no word for a bit that would explain it.

Saad's Naseer's Rapid Ascent didn't happen for him: He will offer an explanation to the site after the dust settles from the Everest summits.

Dominique is the first Peak Freak to summit, Larry is closing in from where Tim is watching, Scott is in there too, and George is not far. Tim is in between everyone watching for Farouq and Sultan who are behind them. Tim says everyone is moving slow now as there are now about 50 people in front of him. 

Farouq checks in:  Farouq just checked in with sponsor 0845 Nepal Time- he is 450m from the summit and the others are in front of him. Stay tuned!

OTHER CLIMBING LANDMARKS AFTER THE SOUTH SUMMIT ARE:

THE CORNICE RIDGE: A 400- foot long horizontal section of rock and wind-carved snow, this is easily the most intimidating section of the climb. Climbers must carefully traverse a knife-edge ridge of snow plastered to intermittent rocks. This is the most exposed section of the entire climb, and a misstep to the right would send climber tumbling down the 10,000- foot Kangsung Face. A misstep to the left would send one careening 8,000 feet down the Southwest Face, were it not for the fixed ropes. 

THE HILLARY STEP: The most famous physical feature on Everest, the Hillary Step, at 28,750 feet, is a 40- foot spur of snow and ice. First climbed in 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, the Hillary Step is the last obstacle barring access to the gently angled summit slopes. Modern-day climbers use a fixed rope up here to ascend the Hillary Step. We marvel at Hillary and Tenzing's achievement in climbing this impressive mountaineering obstacle without fixed ropes and using what is now considered primitive ice climbing equipment. 

THE SUMMIT:

Getting close! - I just picked up word that one team has just summited. This could mean our team is right behind them. Stay tuned!

APPROACHING THE SOUTH SUMMIT ! ! ! !-    0330hrs- Nepal time, just moments ago - I missed the call but he left a great message. He sounds terrific and says he and the team are approaching the south summit and he will call in again shortly. Everyone is strong, Farouq and Sultan are behind them taking a slower pace. With him is Larry, George, Scott and Dom.. the weather and the view is beautiful. He would have called earlier but the Chinese air space was somehow interfering with his connection. Good news, I am so proud of these guys.  

THE SOUTH SUMMIT: The climbers first small victory of the day, the South Summit is a ping pong table-size dome of snow and ice at 28,700 feet. From here the climbers can obtain the view of the final obstacles ahead of them: the Cornice Traverse, the Hillary Step, and the final slopes to the summit.  It it's late in the day or the weather is deteriorating, this is the place to make the all-important decision to turn around. Having said that, they are in good form.

"VIEW FROM THE INSIDE" by Nabil Lodey

May 20 -Where is Nabs you ask?  "Nabs picked up an illness from his trip down the valley.  This kept him in base camp whilst recovering. However,  he never regained full strength and on the way to Camp 3 it became clear that he would not be able to sustain a strong summit push so he was headed back down the valley to recuperate. Unfortunately time was not on his side and this illness, so late in the expedition, effectively ended his climb." He is very much missed by the team. They are all so tight.  Nabs will be writing a little piece I will put up shortly on his "view from the inside".  Stay tuned!

May 20-Sherpas punch route through to the summit!  Ropes were successfully fixed to the South Col and trail broken to the summit by two sherpas. Theirs are the first two summits for this year. Tim and team haven't checked in yet. Stay tuned!

TEAM IS ON THEIR WAY UP TO C4 They will be checking in once they all have arrived. Enjoy the video with messages from the climbers.

May 19- Tim checks in:  Everyone is rested and feeling terrific! Tim expressed concerns about some clouds forming that may bring snow creating instability on the  Lhotse face for their decent.  The winds are calm but there is considerable precipitation in the reports for tomorrow. Many sat phone calls have been going on for the past few hours comparing weather information and everyone agrees that the bad weather for the 20th should stay heavy and low and they are going to go for it.  Here is the plan:

Tim says, "There is a strong enthusiastic team of sherpas are up at the South Col right now. They are almost at the balcony with rope and tomorrow they will be spreading it all out and start working it to the summit. He also added that the Korean's summited Lhotse today."

May 20- Nepal time: 0700hrs - Leave Camp 3 for Camp 4- arrive around 1400hrs - rest on oxygen till 2100hrs and begin the push to the summit.

I have some audio feed from them this morning  that I will have up shortly. (as soon as neighbor Jason wakes up that is, so I can have him convert it to a windows file!!!!!) JASON!!!  WAKE UP!!!!   Stay tuned!

Becky

New photos up on the support trekkers page:

May 18- Tim checks in: Everyone is now at C3 sleeping, including all of our sherpa climbers. For some of them it will be their first crack at the summit so it is pretty exciting for them.

Tim said, " there's a lot of giggling going on right now from our circle of tents here at C3. Tomorrow we are going to climb a little higher to get out and keep our legs moving and try not to burn too many calories at this point.  We are still on schedule and everyone is doing remarkably well. No headaches!.. the weather is perfect. There's hardly any wind. In the mornings we are seeing low cloud down below but by afternoon it is burning off. With us up here is Project Himalaya, Mountain Madness and Altitude Junkies. Our joint teams of sherpas will be finished fixing the route to the south summit tomorrow. The next day the second team of sherpas will be fixing the route to the summit while we are tucking in behind them. Over and out -tons of love to everyone back home from all of us and a big thank you for all your support and summit wishes throughout this journey."

Tim and team

Tim also expressed that overcrowding won't be a concern this year as previously thought because of the interruption of the Olympic Torch relay. They got lucky. There is a nice window of weather for several days now so everyone is spacing out nicely. We should see another good season of summit stats on Everest for 2008.  

For me, I anxiously await news of everyone standing on top then safely back down and Scott's blog when it's all over :)  

Becky

May 17- Tim checks in:  SUMMIT PUSH STARTS TOMORROW MORNING!!!! - Tim calls from his sleeping bag at which he complains is too hot because he dressed to climb in the wee hours of the morning up to Camp 3.  Everyone is nestled in and probably enjoying some good high altitude dreams right now. The team is heading up, this is it! 

THE PLAN

• May 18- Climb to Camp 3- sleep
• May 19- Sleep at Camp 3 one more night
• May 20- To the south col- Camp 4 - rest a few hours and then head for the summit in the night.
• May 21- 0900- or earlier on the summit!

Many teams are still down low, some in the Khumbu Valley, some at base camp and some at Camp 2. The first wave looks like Peak Freaks, the Indian Army, the Nepalese women's team, and Project Himalaya.

Photo of Tim opening his care package delivered by the support trekkers. He is holding a picture of himself climbing, artists- Ethan our seven year old grandson and the most important person in the world to Tim,  next to me that is, we often wrestle for position between number one and number two.  GO GRAMPY GO! 

We are going to try and organize some footage and audio to post to the site when they go for the summit- stay tuned ! 

Support Team blog updated: Good times and pictures to share. 

April 20, 2008- Permission granted for an uncensored satellite phone call.  Tim checks in this morning to confirm the team is all doing great. Everyone has been up to Camp 1 except for George and Farouq. Farouq leaves tomorrow to do his acclimatization sleep at Camp 1 while the others continue to put their time in at base camp waiting for Camp 2 to be completed.  Our team was on the route between Camp 1 and base camp when Gelyzen Sherpa who was working for another team collapsed and was diagnosed as having suffered a stroke.  Our sherpa team helped take him down off the route and he is now safe and sound in Kathmandu. 

The route to Camp 2 is just about completely fixed with ladders and ropes.  Our sherpas have  been up to prepare the area where our Camp 2 base will be assembled. The team expects to be taking their first trip up to the highest elevation so far to Camp 2 in about 2 to 3 days time.  They will sleep there getting their bodies adjusted to the new altitude for one night, maybe two,  and then retreat back to base camp to recover once again.

The winds have been battering them a bit in exposed sections on the route. Nothing out of the norm that is. This time of year battling wind is common due to the warming spring weather pushing the colder winter air out of the region.  When the spring weather has won, it will create a calm period on the mountain (briefly), before the clouds and storms start to move in caused by the onset of the monsoon season, which brings a lot of moisture with it in the form of heavy snow fall and poor visibility. This calm period is what is referred to as " the summit window". The summit window  traditionally takes places every year mid  May and it is, or "was" their intentions to be in position with all camps stocked and all members acclimatized to the altitude of Camp 3 when the summit window arrives.

The wind is expected to linger a couple more days and then drops off quite a bit on the 23rd to 25th of April. Then come the 26th of April some of the highest winds yet should be expected.  Possibly as high as 120km winds on the summit of Everest.  

It has been rumored that the Chinese were hoping to put the torch on top of Everest on the Tibetan side as early as April 28. If my wind predictions are right this may not happen. However if they get it there earlier this week, say for April 23 to 25th, it could be possible.

It is a fine balance between health and weather that makes a successful summit climb on Everest.  So far we have health and the weather is considered to be all of normal so far. 

I don't know when the next report from the mountainside will be out so keep watching! We have some Plan B communications in progress and will be posting when they are received.  Tim also says that everyone is warming up at base camp. When they first arrived they were wearing the heaviest of the fleece clothing and now they are starting to sport their 5500m beach wear.   :)

Stay tuned!

Becky

April 19, 2008- AT CAMP 1 - According to expedition plan our team should be sleeping safe and sound at Camp 1. This would be their highest sleep so far at 6065. There was a report that got out from base camp via a Sherpani women in the area that a sherpa climber from another expedition had collapsed in the ice-fall complaining the side of his body was numb. He was brought down and taken out to Kathmandu by helicopter. He has summited Everest twice so it was considered odd he would have difficulties this time around. He was able to walk and talk with no problem prior to his evacuation. 

April 17, 2008- Chinese at 7500m on the north side of Everest- Tibet. Still along ways to go and high winds today have held them back. Sorry, no news on the south side within Nepal because of the Nepalese ban. However, it looks like my weather graph reading was right telling Tim in one of our previous pre-ban conversations to expect high winds April 17.

April 16, 2008- No News Is Good News!- In a perfect world....I would be reporting a conversation I just had with Tim. But in the case of the communications ban we will go with assumptions. They were ready to head up to Camp 1 and return to base camp. Because we haven't heard otherwise from the military, it will be safe to say that they are now sleeping like babies safe and sound in base camp.

MT. EVEREST COMMUNICATIONS BAN NOW OFFICIALLY IN EFFECT- April 15, 2008

Families of the climbers will not be left in the dark. We have established limited communication to let everyone back home know the status of their loved ones while climbing. Plan B is now in effect.  Readers don't go away for too long. We will be posting some great information to fill in void during the communication gaps up until the ban is lifted May 10.

My last conversation with Tim he said the team was heading up to Camp 1 tomorrow as planned. Jim Carter scientist from Nassau is at base camp this year performing a study on the effects on the brain of a climber at altitude. They have selected our Peak Freaks team to help them with these test. They will have tested our climbers at base camp and will also test them throughout their climb. This is the same test that is performed on astronauts while in space. They will be tested as they ascend and descend by a series of questions and functions to perform. Tim said the team is really excited about it.  It will give them something else to think about and do. Climbing Everest believe it or not can get quite boring. 

MEET TEAMMATE NABIL LODEY - FUND RAISING FOR UNICEF - JUST GIVING!

Excerpt from the Business Times Online:

[ Lodey’s attitude might come across as cavalier, but it is not. Indeed, a glance at his CV reveals a predilection for life on the edge allied with finely calibrated risk-taking. This is a man who, fresh from his degree in economics at Queen Mary, University of London, joined the Royal Navy. He soon found himself seconded as a UN observer to the de facto independent Caucasian republic of Abkhazia in the midst of its secession attempt from Georgia. “My role involved a blend of diplomatic and legal skills,” he says. “We’d often be called to meet the opposing sides on the ceasefire line and assess what had happened.”

In his 11 years with the Navy, during which he qualified as a barrister, Lodey also saw service in Baghdad, Basra and Afghanistan before joining Freshfields last year. A year later, he had itchy feet. “It had always been a dream of mine to take on a really big adrenalin challenge. I’ve always wanted to find out what my personal limits are. For family reasons, too, I was keen to do something for charity.” Because he used to row competitively, Lodey toyed with the idea of rowing the Atlantic. Ultimately, though, the allure of Everest took hold. As if this isn’t dangerous enough, Lodey is forfeiting job security for the climb.

What are his chances of a successful summit attempt? Lodey admits that he has read Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, an account of a disastrous Everest expedition in 1996 in which eight climbers were killed and several others stranded by a rogue storm. The book and its events led to criticism of guiding companies that take inexperienced clients into environments as severe and potentially fatal as Everest. “I asked the company a huge amount of questions about the expedition and especially about my lack of experience. I was reassured by its professionalism. The fact is that we’ll be in the mountains for three months and during the first few weeks, at low altitude, we’ll be learning a huge amount about mountaineering.”

There will be those who will say that taking on Everest as an accomplished mountaineer is a high risk, but that attempting it with such relative inexperience is mad. But if anyone can do it, it is the determined former Navy officer from Freshfields.  ]

Nabil Lodey had to resign from his position in international law in the International Arbitration Group at Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer. He says jobs like this don't just wait while you take time off to pursue other interests. 

The expedition and equipment is completely self-funded, however, he is separately raising money for UNICEF and is pleased to be able to say that every penny he raises will go to charity rather than subsidizing his expenses. To contribute to his fundraising effort, please use the link below.

If successful, to the best of our knowledge, he will be the first member of Middle Temple to climb Mount Everest - and possibly the first member of the Bar.

Tim and I had the opportunity to meet with Nabil together for the first time when we were all headed to climb Kilimanjaro this year at the same time. It was timely that I personally had the opportunity to meet Nabil before the Everest climb started. He is one great guy and the team adores him and values their new found friendship.  His great sense of humor that spilled out at the first moment we met assured me  that the team was in for good time. By the sounds of Scott's blogs, I was right!

A word from Nabil aka Nabs:

April 14, 2008- Meeting on communications ban  Today the senior L.O. came over to  introduce Tim and  the head of the Nepalese military along with 4 other members of the military who will be monitoring the unique climbing regulations this year on Everest. The formal meeting with the expedition leaders and the military is scheduled for tomorrow to hand down the procedures and expectations of the climbing teams with regards to their communications equipment. They wanted to meet with Tim to get an idea of what questions and concerns the climbing teams might have so they can prepare themselves.

Tim explained to them that the number one thing expeditions will want to have is a communication link with home, and that this was of the utmost of importance to all of them. The leader of the military group understands this because he is a climber. He himself has summited Everest and has a family too. Tim explained that everyone has gone to great length in preparation and expense to come and climb and that the communications ban was not part of the plan so it is difficult to swallow. They discussed websites blogs. Tim explained that websites that are relaying dispatches from the mountain are doing it mainly to update their family and friends at home and for some it is being used as tool for securing sponsorship funding and was never intended from what he knows of the climbers here today, would be used as a political medium. He told them for us at Peak Freaks like other commercial operators, website blogs help generate tourism for Nepal and that this is a good thing.  They said absolutely no to cameras but are pondering how to best handle communications but are not making any promises. 

Tim also asked them what their plans were for trekkers coming in that have cameras and sat phones. They advised that trekkers will be stopped before entering the base camp area and will be asked to park their cameras and phones for collection when they leave. As mentioned in one of our earlier dispatches, it would be a good idea for trekkers to mark their equipment and perhaps take a photo of your equipment with you for easy identification. 

Here are some of the restrictions in the agreement expedition leaders were asked to sign as a condition of being granted a permit this year:

1. Climbing between April 1 to May 10 up to Camp 2 only. There will be police on the mountain to Camp 2 to make sure.
2. The rest of the mountain will be open after May 10. The mountain closes by call of nature and the ice-fall melt May 31. 
3. All electronic equipment is not permitted on the mountain from April 1 to May 10. This includes all cameras, video and other. Laptops, PDA's and Satellite phones. All items will be collected from expeditions by the Liaison Officers at base camp and locked up till after May 10.

Ice-fall update!  The ice-fall doctors will sit it out tomorrow until  the meeting is over then the next morning, Peak Freaks will be the first to head out tailing behind the ice-fall doctors who will dart ahead to fix the last section to Camp 1. Peak Freaks team will drop a load and hang out getting used to the new altitude before retreating to base camp to sleep.  Tim also said from their little trips up so far the fall is looking good. He said the docs had commented on how good it looks to them too this year. They are pleased!

Larry checks in with his wife Carol :  Thanks so much for all the updates you're posting; they really keep me going :). I talked to Larry last night (our time) and he was cracking me up. He is just giggling...so I know he is "high", literally, that is...but I'm sure it's not just the altitude, he seems very happy with Tim's leadership and the whole set up, it is just so wonderful to hear how excited he is. So thank you for everything you are both doing! - Carol 

April 13, 2008pm- Ice-fall doctors allowed to return to work on the route. More liaison officers arrived today and couple more teams. The senior L.O. and a few others that Tim has become friends with over the years of working there gathered in the Peak Freak tents for a social this afternoon. A meeting was organized and leaders were told that the ice-fall doctors have been given permission to complete the route to Camp 1 but no one is to climb until the military officials have all arrived and they have their meeting. So one more day in occupying themselves. 

Peak Freaks sent over more sherpas to help work on the helicopter rescue pad. It has been established there for rescues for sometime but because it is on a glacier it needs maintained moving the new rocks that have pushed up since the last season. 

Other entertainment today included watching a DVD brought up from Kunde by Ang Ngima sherpas son Ngima. Nima is our official runner this year. The DVD was a copy of the documentary just aired 2 weeks ago on CBC called "The Climb". The story is about the 1982 Canadian expedition where Laurie Skreslet and Pat Morrow were the first Canadians to summit Mt. Everest.  Ang Nima Sherpa who will be leading our group of base camp trekkers up to base camp May 1 was in the film and was part of that expedition and Pat sent him a copy. Tim contributed DVD footage of Everest to to the film.

EVEREST BLOG by MSM

Writer/Filmmaker

Three days ago, we all tried our hand climbing the notorious Khumbu ice- fall. Our base camp is situated as such that we have front row seats to this glaciated freak of nature. The ice fall, as you may know from Everest photos or films is a dangerous amalgamation of sapphire seracs and hanging boulders made of snow. To me, it looks like a whitewater tidal wave frozen mid-explosion. As Dom and I were studying the fragments, searching for a route through the melee, he quipped in his regular French/Terminator style accent, "the" more I look at this, the more it looks like foolishness. He is no doubt, the strongest ice climber out of our crew. 

Our progress was slow, as we were hammered by snow for the duration of the climb. Clipping into ropes with expedition mittens, was cumbersome to say the least. Certainly the altitude was making our legs, crampons, boots, and packs seem all the more heavier. Tim leads the way through the maelstrom with excellent precision, a feat made especially more impressive considering he did it with one crampon affixed to his boot. Poor Faroq had an early "wardrobe malfunction" blow out a spring in his crampon. Tim, being the ever generous and capable guide, switched gear with him and still whooped us all up the mountain. 

As a team , we really didn't get too far. But yesterday delivered a brilliant twist in the weather and with it, a seemingly miraculous spike in our ice climbing ability. Under blue skies and 75 degree F temperatures we pounded our way very close to Camp1- The golden pot at the end of the Khumbu Ice-Fall rainbow! we are the first team to progress this far along with the route established by the legendary ice-fall doctors. The heroic sherpas who risk life and limb to set the ladders and ropes through the frozen maze. 

And though we are all in good spirits about progress, there was a humbling reminder waiting for us at the top. Tracks from a snow leopard bonding to and fro, leaping over crevasses crossing up, back, and down showed us all how the real pros navigate though terrain- and without crampons !!!

April 12, 2008- The Liaison Officers and Military are just outside base camp at the last lodge location at Gorak Shep.  The team saw them on their way back from Kala Pattar today so Tim has sent Dendi our expedition climbing sirdar down to be a fly on the wall.   This could be it!

Other news is that the team is preparing equipment in the morning to head up to Camp 1 or close to depending on the ropes and drop a load. The Sherpas won't be going anywhere. They will wait till more fixing has been established as they prefer to boot it all the way to Camp 2.  This is the plan anyway. Tim said he will update me with what actually happens tomorrow.

Scott prepared a green style dispatch today as a practice run should we loose our new world communications.  I will transpose it tomorrow for everyone to read. I on the other hand have been practicing reading weather reports. If I am right- they should be expecting high winds on April 17 up to 95 km per hour on the summit of Everest.  Only problem is I  won't have confirmation from the ground because they can't see the summit where they are at base camp. If they were to see it, and trekkers could from Kala Pattar or Tengboche, they would see a lenticular cloud formation over the summit of Everest which is the tell tail sign of extreme winds. 

Stay tuned!

April 11, 2008- No idle time for our team!  During the past 11 days our team has been getting acquainted with their new home, meeting new arrivals and bonding with their Sherpa team mates. They have been practicing ice climbing skills and movement on ladders and are all checked out with 85 to 98 percent oxygen saturation levels at Everest Base Camp's  altitude of 5380 m (17700 ft). 

High altitude affects the human body due to oxygen deprivation.  Oxygen is critical to normal cellular function.  The main physiologic effects of hypoxia (low oxygen) alter physical performance, mental performance and sleep.  Our team is well past this stage now and are feeling energetic.

As one gains altitude, there is a drop in the barometric pressure with a corresponding drop in the oxygen pressure.  At an altitude of 3,000 meters (9,840 feet), commonly an altitude encountered at ski resorts, the barometric pressure and the oxygen pressure are 70% that noted at sea level.  At 5,000 meters (16,400 feet) the oxygen pressure is 50% that at sea level.  On the summit of Mt. Everest 8,848 meters (29,021 feet) oxygen is 29% that at sea level.

Persons over 50 years of age seem to be less susceptible to altitude illness.  Women are equally prone to AMS but seem to be less susceptible to HAPE.  Physical fitness is not protective against high altitude illness, although obesity may be a risk factor.  Medical conditions such  hypertension, coronary artery disease and diabetes do not seem to affect the susceptibility of high altitude illness.  Genetics seem to play an important role. 

Having said that, the team has opted to go climb a non-technical trekking peak- Kala Pattar 5600 m (18,500 feet)  that is behind them down the valley. They will keep their legs moving as to not let any muscles become weak after all the training they have done. They will now be able to climb Kala Pattar with good speed and push their lungs hard. Had they done this on the way in to base camp they wouldn't get as much out of it as they will now. There won't be any tricky maneuvers, ladders, ropes or bulky equipment  to slow them down here as there will be on Everest. 

During this time away the ice-fall should open and our sherpa team will start hauling loads up to assemble Camp 1 and then Camp 2. By the time the team returns they will be ready to get up to Camp 1 6065 m (19900 ft) right away.

Tibet  reverses plan to reopen to tourism.  May 10, 2008 we were notified all Everest expedition permits on the north side within Tibet were cancelled and no foreigners would be  allowed entry into Tibet. Earlier this week, April 8, I was notified by our Tibetan contact that Tibet would be reopened to foreigners commencing May 1 but the monasteries would remain closed. Then just today I was notified that this plan has now been  reversed keeping Tibet's doors closed till after the Olympics.  One more disappointment for climbers who had high hopes to climb and acclimatize on the Nepal side and wait till the Chinese were finished with their torch relay to go and have their crack at the summit well  after the Chinese had cleared off Everest.  No hope now of a summit bid on the north side  since the Olympics doesn't take place till August. Autumn on Everest anyone? Not Peak Freak's, we will be busy training for Everest South Ridge spring of 2009  on  Mt. Pumori the daughter of Everest.

Enjoy the photos above....be sure to click on them to enlarge them.

Have a good weekend!

April 10, 2008- While the Ice-doctors work- the climbers will play!  The new way of climbing Everest!  Much unlike the old days where around every  block of ice would be a surprise. Now with the new system, all expeditions pay a fee to employ the brave select sherpa climbers to do what they do best in making the mountain as safe as possible for passage. Tim said the ice-fall is in good shape from their recent trip up to check out the progress. He said there is one spot that looks a little risky and the plan would be to  just move through it as fast as possible and the docs will be watching it closely. Everyday with melting and glacial movement is a new day anyway, all part of climbing. Throughout the climb the docs will  monitor each section and adjust ropes and ladders and the route as needed. The docs came down for a rest today and to collect more rope. One more trip up and Camp 1 will be ready for teams to start assembling. 

I always tend to get ahead of myself with excitement early in the climbs. Everything seems to be working like clock work and visions of an early summit often play in mind. Rarely does it happen, especially on Everest. The winter weather is still in the area which holds back on mountain storms. Timing of an April 1 start works for climbing on Everest as climbers need this time to acclimatize. They do this by climbing high and sleeping low. Then they go high and start sleeping high.  All of which is mandatory to achieve proper acclimatization. Folks back home think they are mad. Why would go high and then go back down so many times? For more information refer to our pages on Acute Mountain Sickness and Surviving Everest. 

Tim did a walk about today meeting and greeting the new expedition arrivals while other members did laundry and caught up on reading and their journals. He told Dominique that he met two climbers from Quebec while out so Dom went and had a nice visit. Tim reports that BC is quiet. Not so many teams this year as it was thought to be by earlier reports. It was thought that  because of the closure of the Tibetan side of Everest all the teams would come and overcrowd the south side which was a concern. Not true (so far), pretty quiet. I had read someone's blog that they are late getting to BC because they are having trouble getting yaks and porters and are sitting it out in the valley. It is possible that they just haven't all arrived yet. Numbers were thrown out there a week ago that they may be 250 climbers including locals at base camp but I am also told of  news of new climbers just now arriving in Kathmandu. 

April 10 was the Nepalese election day! All seemed to go off without a hitch so far. This could mean the arrival of the Liaison Officers who are selected to search and monitor electronic equipment and enforce the communications ban may be arriving soon. Until then....we are here!

Over and out! Team now sleeping in BC.

April 9, 2008: Several Firsts with Peak Freaks this season!  First Saudi, First from Oman,  21-day Speed Ascent, Climb for "America's Missing Children", Climb for Unicef. Hopeful Home Everest Support Trek. All being featured here over the course of the expedition. 

FIRST SAUDI TO CLIMB MT. EVEREST ! By MSM

Today, I’d like to delve into a “profile of courage” for one of our team members, Faruq from Saudi Arabia .  I told the boys that I am going to try and write about them all while I

Faruq Alzuman- First climber from Saudi Arabia to climb Mt. Everest

 still like them and am not freezing cold and exhausted up on the mountain…So the first shout out is for Faruq Alzuman of Saudi Arabia.  You’d think the pressure of being the first Saudi to summit Mount Everest would weigh heavy on his stout shoulders.  Instead, he ambles through the days with a genuine appreciation for the moment.  Whether it is with a Nepalise cook, Sherpa guide, or fellow climber, Faruq is always ready to give his full attention to the person before him and the task at hand.

 Now, if you are a typical American like me, you may not know much about the Saudi region and the rich culture within it.  In fact, because Saudi Arabia is the birthplace of Osama bin Laden as well as 15 of the September 11^th hijackers, you may harbor negative connotations of the country.  One handshake with Faruq will change all that.  In fact, I believe he underestimates his own capacity as a cultural ambassador for his country.  He quickly inspired me to learn more of his culture and heritage.

Upon further study, I learned that Saudi Arabia and the United States have a lot in common.  Most notably, we are both trying to find our national identities in a world where rampant modernization, mass consumption, and extreme wealth have exploded in the last century.

Formally, the United States and Saudi Arabia sealed their first commercial handshake on March 3, 1938 in the Persian Gulf city of Dammam .  That handshake was covered in oil as U.S. petroleum companies and King Abdul Aziz ibn Saud completed a successful drilling venture in the region.  Today, Saudi Arabia hosts over one fourth of the world’s oil reserves and with it, the power to influence nations.'

Faruq is from Saudi’s capital city, Riyadh which is an ultramodern testament to the power of global enterprise.  As in America , hip kids with cell phones, fast cars, and posh bars line the streets of the burgeoning metropolis.  Apparently, the city’s nightlife is hard to distinguish that of Los Angeles .  But Saudi Arabia is not just another conservative country trying to deal with change.  Their nation is the birthplace of Islam and the keeper of Mecca and Medina .  Their cultural history is rich in tradition and progress.  When Europe was still staggering through the dark ages, Arabia was making profound developments in science and philosophy.

Though Faruq is not sure of the correct English word it sounds like his father works as an Urban Development official which must be no small task for a city that according to some sources “has seen more change in the last six decades than the previous 13 centuries.”

As such, it is no wonder that the youth in Saudi Arabia are at a similar existential crossroads as the kids back in the U. S. of A…namely, what do we do with all this newfound opportunity spawned by an explosion of wealth and modernization?  The luxury is nice.  The availability for education and employment is overwhelming.  Yet where the dollar soars the soul often stagnates.  I call this the Irony of Endless Choice.  The irony arises in this paradox: in a world where everything seems to be at your fingertips, it is hard to get a grip on anything.  As for me, I am undertaking this journey to Everest because it has been a deep seeded desire and now is the right time to pursue it.  For Faruq, his reasoning may be similar.  We both come from modest origins and yet we harbor big dreams.  He once worked as a sign twirler on the streets of Seattle , I was a janitor in a church.  We are both extremely physical and yet deeply spiritual.  Though we have spoken nothing of it, I am sure that together we share a vision of adding some soul to the march of human progress.  Faruq is so proud to be representing his country, it makes me miss my own.  And while every nation has its own particular vice, there is also no small amount of virtue in his homeland.  The Arab culture is one that brought us the modern numerical system, algebra, the paper mill, and my personal favorite, the guitar.

In short, I am looking forward to more time on the mountain with Faruq and am hopeful to see where our imagination can take us, not just on a journey to the top of the world, but also around it.

 On another note when down the valley I had a time out day while the rest of the team when to Kunde and  met Ang Nima Sherpa’s family who invited everyone over for a nice course of Yak steaks and received a khata from his wife to be blessed for our safety on the trip.  Nabil said he would not climb with me as I did not receive the customary red string blessed by the Dalai Lama himself.  I promptly reminded him that the Dalai Lama and I shook hands in 1996 after a peace talk he gave in New Zealand .  Nabil quickly recanted his statement but it was too late.  For a small fee, I may let him climb with me as the eternal fortitude from his highness still permeates my being and most certainly will give us all a holy shot at the summit.  Until next time, be well my beloved family and friends.  

We miss you all.

MSM.

APRIL 9, 2008- LATE APRIL FOOLS!- Tim went out to investigate Larry's find. After poking around Tim confirmed it was someone's old garbage. The bones turned out to be a hip bone of an animal that was probably the  remains of an old expeditions food supply.

APRIL 8, 2008- REMAINS OF A BODY FOUND IN THE ICE FALL:  Today Peak Freak team member Larry Williams discovered what is thought to be remains of a dead body in the Ice-Fall while the team was climbing.  It appears to have worked its way out of the ice and is now surfacing and will start to thaw in the days to come. Larry reported seeing possibly frozen brain matter and expect the ravens will get at it soon.  Pictures to follow.

Today the teams mission was working on the ice-fall getting comfortable practicing movement with loads while maneuvering on  the ladders. We employed  local ice climbing Sherpa instructor, Lakpa Sherpa this year to help with skills evaluation and being the team coach on the ice. 

New Arrivals! The teams base camp is butt up to the ice-fall so they couldn't see the new arrivals which are now visible from up on the ice-fall. You can't see them from where the Peak Freaks camp is unless you walk back in their direction. They are further back from the glacier and the moraine rubble obstructs their view.  Lama Da set-out and preformed a Puja today for them. 

Our team also  met up with Ang Pasang and Ang Nima (Ice-fall doctors) who say it will probably be two more days, maybe three, then the route will be ready. After that Camp 1 is a go. They managed to put in four more "very" vertical ladders and 400m of rope, almost to Camp 1. 

This is interesting! Tim talked with Ang Pempa Sherpa in the ice-fall today who was carrying a HD camera filming a documentary on the Ice-doctors for the Nepalese Government. Very cool! This is something that really needs to be done. These guys are the real heroes on the mountain along side the climbing porters and climbing Sherpas. Can't wait to see it!

Our team is quite happy with the menu so far. Tonight they enjoyed fresh organic roasted chicken, potatoes,  greens and banana pie. Tim said the team commented that they are really enjoying the quality time together pre-climb and the location of their camp. They are nestled in a bowl feature making it nice and warm and are just steps to get on the ice-fall.  Lhakpa Gelgan made a trip up to Everest Base Camp in February to set-out our camp area. Needless to say his tip will be grand!

Chinese Moving up!  While Everest south teams are starting to check in no news from the north since the Chinese closed everything up for the Olympic Torch relay. Word has it that they have as many as 50 climbers in progression now starting to work on the mountain and if the weather cooperates they could stand on top as early April 28. We had heard earlier that this would be the "ideal case scenario" for our Everest south climbers canceling the Chinese demands on Nepal to close the route to the summit till after May 10. 

APRIL 7, 2008- NEW MOON PUJA POWER   We couldn't get a better Puja blessing date than today. The skies opened and the sun was brilliant and warm. Our Puja was  priority today. Lama Da made a special trip to BC for Peak Freaks as we have a very large and spiritually connected sherpa team this year and this ceremony is considered critical to everyone's safety. Today was the first day of the new moon. The moon plays a significant role in the Puja. The new moon is the best date according to the Lama's. All the equipment was piled high and the juniper was smoldering, lots of chanting, ceremonials drinks like chang (a rice based drink resembling Japanese Sake, also served warm) easy does it!  and beer. During the chant, offerings of food were given to  Lama Da. He  made a  barley paste from Tsampa (ground barley) temple coated with the climbers favorite candies as their offering to the temple.  During the ceremony everyone is given rice and Tsampa  to throw at each other. Too fun!  Lama Da is going to stay with Peak Freaks till the rest of the expeditions arrive and then he will be very busy making his rounds.

Just a few more ladders and a few more days and the team is ready to go to Camp 1. They are biting at the bit to get at it. When the ice-fall is officially ready the Sherpas will go ahead passing Camp 1 and press on up to Camp 2 to start establishing camp with tents, stoves, fuel, food, toilet etc. to have it ready for the  team's next move after Camp 1.  

We received word this morning from our Tibetan contact that China has officially announced to re-open Tibet to tourism commencing May 1 but not the monasteries.

Lama Da's prayer notes.	Equipment blessing	Gamow bag demonstration

APRIL 6, 2008- PLAY DAY! - Today the team was practicing skills  in the ice-fall. The ice-fall doctors took a day off and they are expected to be finished fixing the ladders and ropes through this section in about four days time. So far the EverestER medical facility has been assembled and one lone Korean climber has arrived.  Tomorrow Lama Da will be arriving to perform our expeditions Puja ceremony. After the ice-fall is done and the Puja, it is time to LET THE CLIMB BEGIN!  The Sherpas for spiritual reasons will never put foot on the mountain without participating in this very important ritual.  The food is blessed, the climbers and their equipment. For more information you can read here PUJA CEREMONY  Everyone is doing fantastic!  Acclimatized, healthy and eating lots!

APRIL 4, 2008- NORMAL.... That is how we are approaching this climb right now.  Many more questions and concerns are coming about after the hasty release of the regulations to climb Everest this year. There appears to be just too much on the table in Nepalese politics right now and one can't get clarity on several outstanding issues. The Chinese Olympics, the onset of the Everest season and a concerning election taking place on April 10th.  A reliable source in  Kathmandu said in an email a few days ago-- " because of the upcoming election government officials have been assigned jobs for the election and the ministers are in the field to get votes".  

APRIL 3, 2008- EMAIL FROM ONE OF OUR READERS!  

APRIL 3, 2008- CLIMBER LARRY WILLIAMS email finds its way home.: 

APRIL 3, 2008- WHAT ABOUT THE TREKKERS! - Cameras? Sat phones? - That was another topic of conversation this morning between Tim and I. Each year many base camp support trekkers make their way to base camp to see the ice-fall and all the action that happens around an Everest expedition.. They come fully equipped with video and still cameras and today even personal sat phones. So does this mean they will also have to park them? more than likely, so trekkers beware and make sure you carefully mark your cameras and phones as there may be a very large pile to sort through. 

Fortunately our base camp trek team of 16 members is due to arrive at base camp on May 10 for 2 nights. So if all works that the Chinese get their torch on top, we should be okay. 

APRIL 3, 2008- ICE- FALL FIXING  IS PROGRESSING NICELY - Tim called 0945:  Another Doctor Ang Pasang  Sherpa (ice-fall doctor that is) dropped in for tea with Tim today at BC to report that the ice - fall fixing is moving along swiftly. They have successfully  installed 900m of rope and 7 ladders are in place and are back at it first light. 

We also had more time to discuss the meeting with the Ministry prior to his quick departure to BC. At that meeting all leaders were required to sign an agreement with the ministry on adhering to the new rules for this year only. Those rules were very clear:  

1. Climbing between April 1 to May 1 up to Camp 2 only. There will be police on the mountain to Camp 2 to make sure.
2. The rest of the mountain will be open after May 10. 
3. Communications equipment is not permitted on the mountain from April 1 to May 10. That includes all cameras, video and other. Laptops, PDA's and Satellite phones. All items will be collected from expeditions by the Liaison Officers at base camp and locked up till after May 10.

The communications ban hasn't happened yet to Tim and his team because they are ahead of the Liaison Officers. He expects they will be there in about 4 to 5 days time and when that time comes we will correspond with communications Plan B.  It is rumored that there will be Chinese officials at BC too.

ALREADY AN EVEREST RELATED DEATH IN 2008! - Not a pretty sight on the trail between Lobuche and Gorak Shep. A working yak died on the trail. Tim said the yak drivers were pulling the expedition equipment off of him when he passed by. He said it will be a pretty smelly mess to walk by for sometime because he isn't going anywhere.

Tomorrow the team is heading over the ice-fall to start swinging some ice axes getting ready for the climb.  They are still the only ones at base camp other than sherpas from other teams who are now starting to move rocks and make space for tents.  

Everyone is doing really well.... They are stoked about their camp and how comfortable their home is going to be over the next 2 months. 

Over and out!  

APRIL 3, 2008- ALL IS GOOD!  Tim managed to get a broken up call out last night. His call yesterday didn't happen because of a storm in the area that quite possibly interrupted the reception.  There was no check point at Gorak Shep when he passed through and he hasn't seen any police yet. It is quite possible he is ahead of their plans to set-up security so everyday will be a wait and see. We are waiting right now for his next scheduled call.  Stay tuned!  

APRIL 2, 2008- Hmmm! 

Tim Rippel and Dendi Sherpa our expedition  sirdar are now reunited in base camp. Photo: Ama Dablam 2006

 No news from Tim this morning.  The old saying " no news is good news" doesn't apply here. This is the first day of silence since he arrived in Kathmandu on March 15.  So your guess is as good as mine at the moment. Did he get his sat phone confiscated? or is there just a technical glitch?  It will be a wait and see at this point.  The last I spoke to him was last night North America time, his morning, he was just heading up to visit Lama Geshi at his house and then hitting the trail to base camp to join up with rest of the  team who arrived at EBC yesterday. Stay tuned! 

APRIL 1, 2008- TEAM 1 IN BASE CAMP-  Just got off the phone from Tim in Pangboche. He opted for the flight to Lukla and a swift trek to Pangboche (11 hrs), the last 2 hours was in the dark walking with his headlamp. He met up with another head lamp on trail making the night run, it was  long time friend Ang Pasang sardar with IMG on the trail. They enjoyed some heart felt hugs and a good chat on all topics of climbing on Everest this year and catching up on family news. 

Tomorrow morning Tim will nip in to visit Lama Geshi's house and get his personal blessing. A very important step in climbing Everest. Our other members already had their blessing  when they passed through a couple days back and there will be another one at base camp in a couple days once the entire team is united with all the sherpas. 

Team 1 is Nabs, Larry, Farouq, Scott and Sultan. Team 2- a couple days behind because of their later arrival in Kathmandu is Dom and George, they are in Lobuche right now. 

We are the first team at base camp as our camp was set-up 2 weeks ago waiting for the permit issues to get sorted out because of the Chinese demands on Nepal. The ice-fall doctors (the sherpas who work maintaining the ice-fall) have already started fixing the ice-fall with the ladders and ropes and should have it ready to start climbing on in about 6 to 7 days, maybe less. Tim says there are  many yaks on the trail right now making the move to collect all the other expeditions equipment and get it up to base camp. The trail will be extremely busy during the next week and our team will be entertained watching the little base camp city quickly develop around them in the days to come.

Mountain Conditions: Tim had a good visit with Lhakpa Dorjee and his wife Tashi yesterday on the trail. They said that this winter was very cold and dry so there isn't much snow on Everest this year. Tim said it is colder than normal right now where he called from in Pangboche. This is all good news to my ears and Tim confirms that as a result the ice fall should be nice and tight.

As for communications Tim is still traveling with sat phone in hand. So as long as he is allowed to keep it we will keep  posting. We suspect he may have it taken from him by as early as tomorrow when he passes through the last village of Gorak Shep just before base camp. Rumors are that this is where they may set-up a check post.  If this happens we will still get word out as best as we can. We will resort back to the way it used to be. They way we used to climb before everyone started carting equipment to base camp.  Have a look here to learn how that might happen:  LESS IS BETTER- on our GREEN THEME  page.

DISPATCH FROM MSM:

Hi folks,

 I must get off one more speed blog even though I am now dipping into my Sherpa tip money. Internet at 14,ooo feet is not cheap and rightfully so.  I pity the yak that had to carry the satellite dish on it’s back up from Lukla.  Sultan and Faruq seem to be acclimatizing well.  Fortunately, Will continues to supply us with the necessary sunscreen, band aids, and beef jerkey as we continue our push to Everest Base Camp.  Yesterday we did a little hike up to 17,000 feet and I felt great.  I felt great that is until Nabs and Larry decided to do it twice just to display their acclimatization dominance over the rest of us.  So far, they are the studs of this endeavor and I must constantly quiet my competitive voice.  The usual ego driven, “take them out!!!” is thankfully exchanged with a new mantra…. “save your energy.”   The battle for brilliance continues between the two at our nightly conversations.  In a somber moment, Nabs reminded us that for every ten people to summit Mount Everest, one person dies.  Larry, with his quick math genius replied, “Well, we only have nine people so we’ll be fine.”  Nabs has been quoted as saying, “I’m trying to reduce the variables on a trip that seems to have few constants.”  His eloquence with the English language far surpasses mine, but I threaten physical shenanigans every time he out wits me.  (I’m sorry if this blog makes no sense.  

Anyway, Nabs sentiments at trying our best to prepare are widely shared.  The Chinese continue to clamp down on communications for their ever important Olympic torch run up Everest.  Those of you at home probably know more about the situation as we are without CNN and other media outlets.  The latest word is that this may be my last communication until after May 10^th, as there are no outgoing messages from Base Camp.  

George and Dominique arrived last night here in Dingboche.  Dominique seems to be suffering from the same stomach flu that I dealt with.  George is on the other end of the spectrum, full of energy and passion.  His mission to Everest is to film our expedition in attempts to raise funds and awareness for America’s missing children.  He has two great HD cameras in his pack which is wonderful, since mine died in Pangboche….another victim of altitude sickness I guess.  Anyway, in a simple twist of fate George is without a cameraman/writer for his mission …so it seems I’ve picked up some more work.  My current goals are to shoot some Everest footage for an independent film I’m working on, cut together a trailer for Tim and Becky of Peak Freaks,  help out George with www.climbforamericaschildren.com, and oh yes, summit Mount Everest.

To all of you rooting for us back home, your thoughts and prayers are widely felt.  Our energy and enthusiasm is growing.    NAMASTE and AGAPE and all the best.

MSM

March 31, 2008- PERMIT IN HAND.....Just got off the phone from Tim in Kathmandu. He was packing quickly getting ready to go and catch up to his team. He will jump on a helicopter if there is one going  up that he could slide onto,  or he will fly to Lukla and start a fast pace up the trail. A trek that takes eight days he will do in two because he should still be acclimatized from doing Aconcagua.  The team just arrived in Lobuche today and are doing well. 

As suspected the permit comes with rules. Rules we were afraid of but at this point there is nothing anyone can do if you want to climb Everest this year. Here they are::

1. Climbers can only go as high as Camp 2 until the period between May 1 and May 10.  The day the Chinese have set to have completed their Olympic torch relay.
2. No communications till after May 10. That means no sat phones, laptops, or PDA's. I forgot to ask about the on mountain radios. That is a pretty mandatory piece of equipment for emergencies so I sure hope so. I suppose though if they military is there they can be the channel for an emergency. No cameras, videos or other. Everything will be locked in a container guarded by the military till after May 10. 
3. There will be policing on the mountain and at base camp up until  May 10. 

I will write more in the next hour, I just wanted to get this out ASAP as I know everyone is watching and waiting.

Becky

March 30, 2008- Tim, still in Kathmandu!  Those who know him can imagine how much he enjoys being idle. A friend of his Paresh Strestha who lives in Kathmandu ust recently developed the first climbing gym there.  Paresh is an avid  basket ball player and kindly invited Tim to hang and shoot some balls the other afternoon. Tim said Paresh also invited him to play a game with the team the next day but he wisely opted out for fear of twisting something pre- climb. Yesterday he teamed up with another friend and went for a very long bike ride. 

Meanwhile, the team  is all healthy and happy in the village of Dinboche (MAP).  Nabs, Scott, Sultan, Farouq and Will held out for George and Dom to catch up. Saad is coming in the end of April to a 21 day speed ascent from Kathmandu to summit and back and the support trek team will be arriving May 1 in Kathmandu and join up with the climbers May 10 at base camp. 

PHOTO: Lakpa Sherpa hanging out Paresh's climbing wall. Lakpa has summited Ama Dablam 5 times. He is working on the expedition this year. A very strong and skilled climber.

Sorry everyone, not much to report today. Tomorrow is the BIG meeting with all the leaders so I will report to you first thing Monday morning our time to let you know the status of the pending permit and the new rules for this year.

March 28, 2008- Dom and George enjoying life in Namche while the other members are spending another night in Tengboche. Tim on the other hand is still banging his head against the wall in Kathmandu waiting for the Ministry to organize the meeting with the expedition leaders to discuss as a whole their restrictions for this years climb in light of Chinese torch relay and the complications that have come about because of it.  Tim is being held back as some leaders have not yet arrived in Kathmandu. He did however get a gentleman's agreement and a hand shake from the head minister that he will be on that helicopter to Pheriche on Tuesday no matter what! Thankfully, Tim had just returned from climbing Mt. Aconcagua the highest peak in the America's. His blood chemistry would still be acclimatized at 20,000 feet or more so he could safely do this without getting AMS- Acute Mountain sickness which normally occurs in trekkers and climbers who go too high too fast or in some their hemoglobin make up won't allow them to acclimatize.

PHOTO:  Namche Bazaar - Day 2 of the trek. Market central for the Khumbu Valley.

. 

March 27, 2008- WASTING AWAY IN KATHMANDU- A lonely Tim calls in this morning missing his twice yearly rendezvous with our sherpa families of friends and the friendship in this years Everest climbing team.  The scheduled meeting for his final procedures at the ministry has been delayed once again due to some concerns the ministry has and they are wanting to talk to more expedition leaders who are just now starting to arrive in the capital city. The team is in great spirits and sound to be having a lot of fun. Here is Scott's latest dispatch from Tengboche:

Hello everyone!
 
A special happy birthday to my little sister Kim who is running my life back home while I am up here in what must be one of the most beautiful places on earth.  Namche reminded me a bit of Portofino, on the Italian Riviera.  Both towns exude a calm tranquility, nestled in a majestic horshoe shaped hillside.  The obvious difference is that instead of an emerald sea for a backdrop Namche hosts a jagged curtain of Himalayan peaks.  Yesterday, we hiked up to Tengboche.  I am feeling much better thanks to a couple jugs of black tea and have lightened my load in more ways than one, as my trekking pack is now without the burden of the camera gear.  (Thanks to the porter)  Sultan has been nicknamed, "Sultan of Steel."  On top of his other ailments, which he takes with a smile, he tried some Nepali hot sauce at lunch the yesterday.  Within moments he was laughing in his homeade shower of sweat as the rest of us looked on in disbelief.
The guys on this team are solid.  I am still trying to figure out who is more brilliant, Larry the Math Teacher/climber/former Army man or Nabil the International Man of Mystery...excuse me, that's international lawyer.  Their conversations ebb and flow between topics ranging from World War II, Renaissance Art, old football teams, and even Brittany Spears (yikes.)  I wish I had my laptop so I could keep track of the genius...or at least google a subject every now and then and pretend I know what they are talking about.  Nabil's dad suggested he try out a high altitude tent before his trip.  For three weeks Nabil slept in this simulated 20,000 foot atmosphere controlled environment and the payoff is evident.  He is kicking our butts up and down the trail.  Now, I must ask my father where was he when I needed such tutelage?  Then I remember, I only told him I was going to climb Everest two days before my flight left.  Sorry Dad.
Going up the switchbacks yesterday a YAK traffic jam caused quite a commotion.  Two teams, one headed up, the other headed down blocked the path for a bit.  The congestion was reminiscent of traffic on the 405, except no pavement, just dirt, no cars, just yaks, no pollution, just the stench of yak dung.  Anyhow, one careless Yak knocked a stone retaining wall down the mountain which tumbled quite precariously down the path below.  We yelled and hooted, trying our best to warn other trekkers in the path of the stone wall avalanche.  One of those speeding boulders in the shin could end a climbing career before it even started.  Fortunately, no one was hurt and we made it up to Tengboche without incident.
All apologies for the haste in these messages but email is getting more and more expensive the higher up the massive satellite dishes are sherpa'd in.  I'm afraid that some of my details have not been properly researched.  But for now here is where we stand. 
This morning I woke up well before dawn after another night of crazy high altitude dreams.  Around 6am I meandered down the magnificent village square.  A black dog, that looked half lab, half Lhasa Apso slept in the open, curled in a perfect ball.  For two dollars, I treated myself to a plain donut and surprisingly delicious cup of coffee at the local Tengboche bakery.  Who would have guessed such creature comforts could be found in a place that seems so remote?  Nearby in the monastery the monks offer their morning chants as the sound of yak bells carry on the wind.  The multi-colored prayer flags ripple and wave a soothing melody and I'm glad my IPOD took a permanent dive after only two minutes of play.
I feel that with Faruq, Nabil, Larry, Will, and Sultan and I, am part of a training academy, not unlike the fire academy that I attended years ago.  Similarly, the next few weeks will undoubtedly be among the most challenging of our lives.  Fortunately, unlike the fire academy, there are no psuedo-military dictators yelling in your face, "Mortensen, you make a mistake up here and you die!"  But the fact remains.  The ice, like the fire, carries heavy consequence to the ill prepared, the arrogant, or the ill-timed.  That's why I am rather ecstatic with our team.  We all seemed very focused on the task ahead yet we are all in good spirits, laughing often and harder than I have for quite some time.
Last evening Larry and I were in tears when our conversation drifted into future base camp activities...chess, reading, frisbee, maybe even darts?  No one had thought to bring a dart board!!!  And we quickly laughed through the scenarios why...."Oh nice shot, you just popped my thermarest."  "Must be the altitude, that last one went through my tent, it's not waterproof anymore!"  "Oh no! My down suit now has multiple air vents..."  So on and so forth...It was really funny at the time you have to trust me....
Anyway, back to the firefighter analogy.  We are all in training and preparation.  We have our heavy boots, our specialized "turn out" gear, our air bottles we carry on our backs, everything down to the axes and the ropes!  But as important as all this gear is the team attitude that is developing.  Members share their knowledge, their expertise, as well as their food, sunscreen, or first aid.  Will, our trekking member is always enthusiastic to help in every way he can.  So, I guess the thing I'm learning is that as we adapt and overcome through the daily trials, we are becoming more cemented in our rock hard mission.  Get to the top.  With this wonderful group of individuals working together for the common goal, I think we can do it...safely and triumphantly. 
Now that my email bill is up to a thousand rupees I best be going.  I won't have contact for a few days, which is a shame because I really want to write about Larry and Nabil some more.  "Nabs" as we call him, doesn't realize that I am still a little sore at the Brits for their part in the American Revolution....I mean, no taxation without representation????  The audacity.  Anyway, he seems to be a good swipe, which may or may not stop me from dumping his English tea off the Lhotse face just for spite.  If you have any good lawyer jokes please send them to me ASAP.  All I can think of is, "How do you get an international lawyer off the Khumbu ice fall?"  "Wave to him."
 
Okay, that's really bad.  Plenty of time to work on more.  Much love to you all.
 
MSM

March 26, 2008- GOT IT!  One step closer to Everest.  Tim, the eternal optimist. Ever since March 10 when news hit about Everest closures and talks started to go down, Tim remained calm saying in his laid back way "ah, it will all happen". We often say that climbing  Everest is the easy part, getting there is the hard part. Be it finding the money.  taking time away from normal routines like a job or even getting the support of your family can be a real big one.  We learned this on our first Everest  expedition back in 1991 when major landslides closed the Friendship Highway, the road from Nepal to Tibet. It took us three weeks to get from Kathmandu to base camp on the north side. A trip that would normally take 3 to 4 days with acclimatization stops. We literally had to move a mountain to get there. But that is a story for another time. 

This is just a preliminary permit. Tim's final meeting with the Ministry is set for Friday. He met with Ang Tshering Sherpa last night, the head the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The agencies, and Ang Tshering in particular have gone far and beyond to make this years climb happen for everyone. They have made some serious guarantees to the Ministry that climbers and their expedition leaders will carefully  adhere to  the  May 1 to May 10 restrictions imposed this year.  We hope everyone will be respectful of what they have done for us in allowing everyone to play in their back yard during this troubled time. We hope everyone will quietly come and climb and let all the magic happen that would normally happen in this peaceful and beautiful place.  The income generated from Everest is critical to sustain many families in Nepal. It would have been a real shame if it had been lost to politics and the Olympics.  We don't have to live there so we should  tread softly.  "We should come to Nepal for a change and not to change Nepal". That is my motto..

Dom and George are on their way up the valley. They should be now resting in Monjo. The others have moved up to Pangboche.

Onward and upward!

Becky

March 24, 2008- In Namche Bazaar: Dispatch from climber Scott Mortensen 

Hey Folks,

Just wanted to update you on the climbers, the culture, and the expedition.  I can’t say how excited I am to be here.  When we first got to Kathmandu , the cultural climate was

 at a boil.  Exasperated travelers returning from Lhasa were happy to touch foot where the Chinese protests were much less volatile. 

In my opinion, shutting down Mount Everest for a sideshow torch run, foiling expeditions to the north side, and squashing civil protest is missing the spirit of the Olympics.  The good news is that the incident has heightened awareness for human rights in Tibet and fortunately, it looks like our climb is on.

Tim and Becky did a solid job of arranging our team as well as our trip logistics.  The first climber I met was a young man named Faruq who is representing Saudi Arabia as his country’s first to summit Mt. Everest.  I am keeping my fingers crossed for him because he is such a positive guy.  Everywhere we go he is lighting up the faces of the locals with his gift for the language, not to mention a smile that transcends normal cultural constraints.  . 

Another climber with less than snowy roots is Sultan.  What a cool name.  Sultan is from Oman and so far has been trekking along with quiet determination and some secret hope that I’ve yet to uncover.   He works forensics with the Omani police and specializes in ballistics.  I’m sure he and my retired FBI father would have a lot to talk about.

Next on the list is Larry, who I’ve nominated Gold Team Leader.  Larry is friendly, helpful, and has a family back home that is absolutely rooting for him.  The other day on our hike up from Lukla I pointed out a yellow bird which apparently was a “glow-in-the-dark” green backed tit.  As an avid ornithologist, Larry was pretty stoked.  Right then and there I told him it’d be an honor to be his ‘wingman from here on out.”  As a math teacher from Reno , Larry has a surprising amount of climbing experience and know-how.  I am watching his lead, as his organization, preparation, and knowledge gives him a solid shot at the top.  He seems like the kind of climber who won’t take any unnecessary risks, but at the same time is prepared for anything.

Me on the other hand…I am a different story.  I made the mistake of trying to hump my camera gear in an already heavy pack up about three thousand feet on the first day.  I figured the Sherpas do it so why can’t I?  Well, because the Sherpas are legend and that’s an understatement.  We saw women and children who weighed about 130lbs. carrying loads twice their size…oh yeah, in flip flops.  One guy was carrying six office chairs and a desk all wrapped in twine.  I don’t know who ordered the office furnishings at base camp, but it did not look like an easy haul.

But I am not a Sherpa.  About three quarters of the way through the trek I hit the wall and if it wasn’t for the insistence of Karsang Sherpa who lightened my load I’d probably still be kicking it on a stone bench in the valley below.

Right now, I’m writing to you from an awe-inspiring vista atop Namche Bazaar.  Peak Freaks did not cut any corners with our accommodations which is an absolute blessing.  Though the altitude robs you of your appetite, I forced down a meal, took a hot shower, and now have enough energy to film some of the ridiculously beautiful people and vistas.

I am looking forward to getting to know some of our other team members.  Nabil is an international lawyer from the UK who is raising money for UNICEF in his push for the summit.  We have a lot in common, and fortunately he puts up with my crass Yankee humor.

Will is an outdoorsman from Minnesota who seems absolutely immune to the elements.  He is coming to base camp with us and I can tell there is at least a part of him that would love to come back and climb to the top.  He nearly saved my life with a piece of beef jerky today.  The trail up to Namche is a gauntlet of switchbacks, river crossings, and views of staggering peaks.  As we stopped for a rest at a stone bench there it was, our first view of Everest.  Seeing it helped alleviate my anxiety and replaced it with a tangible vision of hope.  Luckily, my difficult first day reminded me that the mountains are a lot like the ocean whether you’re dealing with big peaks or big waves.  Nature is in charge.  The only way to approach is with humility, respect, and hope.

Miss you all and truly wish I could have brought someone along to share in the pain, I mean the beauty of what lies ahead….Personal love to all my friends and family back home, Kim, Dad, Mom, GP, Danielle, Matt, Brian, Tim, Cole, Bob, Dan, all you’s!!! Nothing but love.

MSM

PS: Becky, thanks for posting that half naked shot of me!!!  I’m getting an earful from the guys.

March 23, 2008- On our way! This morning the first set from the team headed off to Lukla and are now sleeping in Monjo.

March 22, 2008 - Photo: MSM packing up his "Never Give Up" shirt at the hotel in Kathmandu. Scott has much to offer this years Everest team. He is an avid surfer, boarder and backcountry enthusiast. He is also a filmmaker and published writer and an EMT and from what I am hearing is also quite skilled in comic relief. 

Packing up and ready to go!  The team is now anxious to get out of Kathmandu. As colorful and entertaining as it can be, the climbers have not lost focus on their main objective. Tomorrow morning everyone except Dom, George and Tim will  be departing on Yeti Airways  Lukla bound. The flight takes 45 minutes. With them will be Dendi Sherpa and Ang Karsung Sherpa. The climbing sherpa team had gone ahead a few days ago anxious to start working on camp, and in time, on the mountain. Dom and George are late arrivals and will start trekking up the valley to Everest Base Camp on March 26 while Tim will go up by Helicopter to Pheriche to catch up to the team who will be making their way in very slowly to allow time for their bodies to adjust to the new altitudes.  The walk  takes 8 days from Lukla to Base Camp. They should be pulling into Camp on March 30 and the permit for climbing would be issued to commence April 1.  

Before anyone can move up onto the mountain the ice-fall will need fixed with ladders and ropes that are maintained by a team of Sherpas referred to as the ice doctors. This can take several days. No one has been working on it yet because of the political disturbances we endured this past week. However, they are on their way now and will get cracking on it just as soon as they can. The team will need some time to rest and rejuvenate and Camp 1 and Camp 2 will need to be established before they can move up on the mountain. 

Everything will happen in good time. When  the Sherpas start working on the route fixing ropes and ladders and hauling loads to establish camps up to Camp 1 and Camp 2, the climbing team's time will not be wasted. After proper acclimatization has been assessed, in house training will begin making sure everyone is on the same page with skills levels and practicing glacier travel and rescue techniques. They will be doing some acclimatization climbs in the area and our professional Sherpa ice-climbing instructor Lakpa Sherpa along with Tim will be running clinics to get all members fine tuned for the big climb to insure the most in safety for everyone while on the mountain

Stay tuned!.

March 21, 2008

GOOD LAUGHS,  Nabs arrived this afternoon in the middle of the color festival. Nabs has recently retired from the British military and is an International Law Lawyer who hadn't been forewarned of this event.  I can't imagine what was going through his head. The team ran around yesterday to get their balloons in order and joined in.  I wished I could have been there to see the smears of dyes in bright shades of pink and purples running down their faces. Nothing on the political front to report as it is a  holiday weekend in Nepal and no new rules or restrictions have been imposed. All is a go!

Team member MSM Photos

HIGHLIGHTS AND FIRSTS

1. Farouq Alzouman- MISSION- To be the first climber from Saudia Arabia to stand on top of Everest.

2. Saad Naseer- MISSION - To set the record of a 21 day speed ascent from Kathmandu to the summit and back.

3. Sultan Al_Ismaili- MISSION- To be the first climber from Oman to stand on top of Everest.

3. George La Moureaux- MISSION- An Everest telethon  "America's Missing Children", more details coming!

OTHER COOL STUFF

This new high altitude oxygen delivery system has been designed and developed by me, Ted Atkins while climbing the mountain. Until recently I was a serving RAF Aerosystems (aircraft) Engineering Officer.

The system was designed and has been built specifically for climbing Everest using aerospace standards that I employ with the RAF. This is the only system built specifically for climbing Everest by an aerosystems engineer who has climbed Everest in the process of testing the prototype. No other system has this pedigree.

EVEREST BASE CAMP SUPPORT TREK TEAM On all our climbing expeditions we offer those without climbing skills to be part of the excitement around a major mountaineering expedition. On May 1 a team of 13 trekkers will commence the 15 day trek up to Everest Base Camp. They will be pulling into base camp May 11, just around the time the heat is on for teams getting into position for their summit bids.  Good timing for moral support and to cheer them on. There will also be a small number of trekkers going in with the team on March. 23, 2008 to see them off.   FULL

Our next BASE CAMP SUPPORT TREK- will be joining the Mt. Pumori expedition October 2, 2008, and the next one after that will back to Mt. Everest but on the North Side with-in Tibet: More details here: EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK- TIBET